Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

kewlkatdady

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So I replaced the engine in my boat recently.
Serial number below.
The original block is an 090M (casting number I think, but this is how Rapido classed my block)

The block I got from Rapido is an 090 block.

The difference between these block are the metric bolts on the back (flywheel cover bolts, starter bolts and motor mount bolts)...other than that they are identical... I think.

Since I had to change starter bolts, the first set I got were a little long (1/8th") and didn't have the knurling or crosshatching.

Starter bolted up, all was fine.
After approx. 10-15 cranks, a couple of hours on the water, I started hear some "bad" noises during cranking.
Did some investigating and the starter is loose.

Pulled the new starter bolts out and compared them to the original METRIC bolts and the new ones are a little longer, the swollen shoulder was different and I decided to get another set.

I did... Now I have a identical bolt in dimension (should depth, knurling and thread lenght)...

I cannot get them to tighten...it feel like its bottoming out in the bolt hole.

My thoughts are to spray a little lube into the bolt hole and use my impact to tighten in down...

What are the odds I over tighten and break the bolt or crack the block? I've been using my air ratchet because of the lack of space, so getting much leverage on a ratchet aint going to happen, but I think I can get my impact in the right position to cinch everything down, but I don't want to F the block up and have to pull the motor again.

Thoughts?
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

:eek::eek::eek: using a impact to tighten the starter bolts? I wouldn't recommend it scooter...
 

EMC 1810SS

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

An impact will split that portion of the casting before you can say "Ohh S***".

A few things come to mind:

1. Is the starter shimmed properly?
2. Correct washers under the bolt heads? this could be an issue.
3. There also could be debris in the bottom of the bolt holes. You should run a CLEANING tap (different than a threading tap) thru the holes.
 

Bondo

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

:eek::eek::eek: using a impact to tighten the starter bolts? I wouldn't recommend it scooter...

Ayuh,... I agree....

I change starters with nothing but a 3/8" drive ratchet...
 

Fishermark

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

My thoughts are to spray a little lube into the bolt hole and use my impact to tighten in down...

REAL bad idea.


What are the odds I over tighten and break the bolt or crack the block?

About 100% I would say.


Thoughts?

Why not take a straw or something similar and measure the depth of the bolt hole and compare that to what you have. It may be that you can get a tap in there and clean it out... or cut your bolt... or get a shorter bolt (making sure it grabs deep enough)... or SOMETHING other than to keep on tightening it and hoping for the best. :eek:
 

kewlkatdady

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

well...thanks for yall's input.

I knew the answer before I asked...and yall just confirmed what I already knew...
Gawd i'm tired of working in these contorted positions.
 

6meter

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

I could be wrong here, I left GM in '86, but at that point all bolts going into the block were SAE threads, not metric. I would go to a GM dealer and buy the proper starter bolts for a '99 4.3l. Regular bolts DON'T work. If the starter was loose, how did it ground?
 

Don S

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

Measure your bolts, they should be 4.33" bolt length (not counting the head of the bolt)

.33 = just a hair over 5/16"
 

kewlkatdady

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

the metric bolts out of the original block are 4.5" long.

I just got something that matched that...

I'll look for 4.33 (5/16) SEA.
 

kewlkatdady

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

I could be wrong here, I left GM in '86, but at that point all bolts going into the block were SAE threads, not metric. I would go to a GM dealer and buy the proper starter bolts for a '99 4.3l. Regular bolts DON'T work. If the starter was loose, how did it ground?

Well the original motor had metric flywheel cover bolts, motor mount bolts and starter bolts...
This was NOT gauged by using a socket to see what fit, they were identified by the numbers on the bolt heads.
 

kewlkatdady

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

I would go to a GM dealer and buy the proper starter bolts for a '99 4.3l. ?

Well I called a couple Chevy dealers and their "system" shows metric bolts...
Gonna try NAPA next
 

kewlkatdady

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

Measure your bolts, they should be 4.33" bolt length (not counting the head of the bolt)

.33 = just a hair over 5/16"

Thanks Don S...4.33 it was.

All is well.
 

mtbdudex

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Re: Starter bolts (not another "how to remove" thread)

Well, I came to this thread in a round-about fashion after I posted my issue in this forums Volvo-Penta area just a few days ago.
Just now, a google search on 4.3 L switch to metric threads took me here on 1st page results
See, I have the reverse problem, well sort of.

My 1996 Four Winns 4.3 L block has the std SAE thd's for the starter/flywheel cove/motor mounts.

In 2009 I paid a local engine shop to put a new short block in, and they got a "M" block, but used the old engine dress hardware.
Everything seemed fine till I replaced the starter 4 weeks ago and upon re-assembly thought I stripped the bolts, but I did not.
More details here
1996 Four Winns Volvo-Penta 4.3 GL PNCS Starter replaced, but stripped back bolt

Reason for "bumping" this thread is to alert others who re-dress 4.3L blocks to be aware the SAE to Metric swap of 1999.
http://www.pera.org/articles/eb60416.htm
In 1999 the 4.3L Chevrolet engine block went metric on the motor mount, transmission mount and starter bolt. Additionally the block casting number had an "M" suffix added. That makes the identification easy and clean.

>>Be very careful about the hardware you use on your re-man block.

My 2009 installed block has this stamp, the story behind that is in this thread http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=319299&p=2347243#post2347243
photo.jpg
 
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