Starter For Magnum 350

[joey nathan]

*1995 Ski-Ray Inboard* 0F616339 engine serial number: Someone please share the part number for the starter No markings/numbers whatsoever on the (smallish) starter itself. Thanks in advance...

 

[Bondo]

*1995 Ski-Ray Inboard*

Ayuh,..... Is this an Inboard, or an I/O,..??

Mercruiser motor right,..?? What drive,..??

 

[joey nathan]

Believe inboard. Like a Ski-Nautique; motor is mid-boat with long shaft to brass propeller. https://www.google.com/search?q=199...toweb.com%2Fboat%2Farticles%2F9783%2F;640;400

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Is the starter mounted down low on the motor's block, or up high on the flywheel cover,..??

 

[joey nathan]

Down low and I have it out already. Turning the key only yielded a clicking of the solenoid. Battery load-tested good at AutoZone...

 

[Bondo]

Down low and I have it out already. Turning the key only yielded a clicking of the solenoid. Battery load-tested good at AutoZone...

Ayuh,.... Then you should be able to find yer starter, by serial number on This page,....

 

[joey nathan]

Thank You Sir...

 

[joey nathan]

Really baffled now. Starter checked okay at AutoZone. They hooked it up and the little gear extended outward and spun just as you'd expect. Battery load test okay also. Cleaned up ring terminals on both ends of the positive and negative cables with sandpaper.

And yet all I get when attempting to start is solenoid fluttering (like a low battery?) What am I missing here? Are AutoZones testers not reliable?

 

[JustJason]

Test your battery cables for voltage drop.... You could have rotten cables.

 

[joey nathan]

Thanks Jason,
With key on, had 12.75VDC @ starer terminal with large red cable...

 

[JustJason]

You want to measure it with the key held to start, and the starter activated. On a side note, if this is a basic lead acid battery you really shouldn't get any more than 12.6 on a fully charged battery. So make sure you disconnect any battery chargers, as they can skew your readings.

 

[achris]

Then check the grounds... Including the 'connection' between the starter and the engine block. I'd check for a voltage drop in the negative circuit by putting the meter leads on the starter housing and the battery negative terminal. You're looking for as LITTLE voltage as possible. Any more than about 0.2v (while trying to crank) is worthy of investigation.

Chris.....

 

[JLK62]

My 2000 Mercruiser 5.7 I/O has a slave solenoid on top of the engine, as well as the regular solenoid on the starter. It failed and was only clicking too. This post helped me find the slave solenoid & replace it.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...tdrives/9884948-boat-not-starting#post9886417

 

[joey nathan]

JLK You're the man! That solenoid is sitting right on top of this engine! Right next to that 50A breaker. I owe you a beer! Big Ups!

BTW Why on earth would we put a solenoid in series with a solenoid?

 

[achris]

...BTW Why on earth would we put a solenoid in series with a solenoid?

Because the solenoid on the starter needs more power than can be provided directly through the key switch without burning up the wiring harness. You use a small current to pull the first solenoid, which can use heavier gauge wires so the starter solenoid can be powered.

Chris.......

 

[JLK62]

Glad I could help you find that solenoid for the solenoid. LOL You owe AllDodge a beer because he's the one who helped me figure it out, but if you're ever on lake Hartwell (GA, SC) I'll be happy to raid your cooler!

Thanks for the explanation Chris. That makes sense now.

 

[joey nathan]

Well, I may finally be on to something here. Positive cable voltage drop checked okay. Measuring from the battery negative post to the ground lug on engine block and I get 7.5V drop! Connector/conductor partially exposed under the shrink wrap at battery end shows some pretty green looking copper wire. Methinks about 8 ft. of AWG2 cable and a couple of ring terminals and I'll be good-to-go again...

 

[achris]

Well, I may finally be on to something here. Positive cable voltage drop checked okay. Measuring from the battery negative post to the ground lug on engine block and I get 7.5V drop! Connector/conductor partially exposed under the shrink wrap at battery end shows some pretty green looking copper wire. Methinks about 8 ft. of AWG2 cable and a couple of ring terminals and I'll be good-to-go again...

That'll do it every time.... :thumb: