starter solenoid

[DMETON]

I just bought a 1972 Evinrude 25hp outboard. The starter wouldn't turn over with the switch. The switch checks out to be good and I can start the motor when I jump the two large terminals on the solenoid. I figured the solenoid must be bad so I ordered a new solenoid and installed it the same way the old one was wired. It still won't start with the switch. Is there a fuse somewhere that I'm missing or did I get a bad solenoid?

 

[Crosbyman]

see diagram not complex battery +12 must reach the switch "Batt" (GREEN) and turning the key puts +12 on S...(tan) . it must reach the selenoid to activate so just follow the +12 to the switch and back to the selenoid check the fuse if you have one ... diag. shows none clean all contact points in case oxydized or bad

 

[kbait]

One of the small terminals on solenoid gets 12v when switch is in start position. Other small terminal must be grounded to block for solenoid to operate. That ground may go through a neutral safety switch (follow wire..on opposite side of powerhead). That switch may be faulty/out of adjustment.. you can just ground that wire, but starter will engage in all gear settings.
Good luck!

 

[DMETON]

see diagram not complex battery +12 must reach the switch "Batt" (GREEN) and turning the key puts +12 on S...(tan) . it must reach the selenoid to activate so just follow the +12 to the switch and back to the selenoid check the fuse if you have one ... diag. shows none clean all contact points in case oxydized or bad

View attachment 357734

This drawing looks like what I've got, excluding the electric choke. I also checked the old solenoid by jumping the 3/8" terminals to a battery and it clicked. I'm thinking that I didn't need a new solenoid and must have a short somewhere or a bad ground.

 

[Crosbyman]

what you likley have is a broken wire or defective start key.
if yourengine does have a safety interrupt along the wires controlling the selenoid then you must test hit for continuity when in NEUTRAL

parts diagram shows a wire to a safety switch via a small wire off the selenoid...

some safety features will interupt the GRD for the selenoid if so eqpt'd

you need to probe the key and should have +12 on BATT then it must transfer to S when the key is turned... then it must reach the selenoid


at the very least turn and hold the key on START then wiggle shake prod all the wiring. if you get a starter reaction you found the problem .


in conclusion you need to track down the +12v if does not reach the selenoid whatever the reason. use a test lamp to ground or a VOM one side to grd.

 

[racerone]

??----The parts book for the electric start kit seems to show a safety switch.----If throttle is open too far it will not crank.----Look for it.----If it is there and does not work it may need to be cleaned.----Yes they are easy to take apart for cleaning !!

 

[DMETON]

what you likley have is a broken wire or defective start key.
if yourengine does have a safety interrupt along the wires controlling the selenoid then you must test hit for continuity when in NEUTRAL

parts diagram shows a wire to a safety switch via a small wire off the selenoid...

some safety features will interupt the GRD for the selenoid if so eqpt'd

you need to probe the key and should have +12 on BATT then it must transfer to S when the key is turned... then it must reach the selenoid


at the very least turn and hold the key on START then wiggle shake prod all the wiring. if you get a starter reaction you found the problem .


in conclusion you need to track down the +12v if does not reach the selenoid whatever the reason. use a test lamp to ground or a VOM one side to grd.

 

[DMETON]

Found it! Had a bad ground from solenoid to block. I built a new ground wire and routed it straight to a mounting screw. Thank you!

 

[DMETON]

what you likley have is a broken wire or defective start key.
if yourengine does have a safety interrupt along the wires controlling the selenoid then you must test hit for continuity when in NEUTRAL

parts diagram shows a wire to a safety switch via a small wire off the selenoid...

some safety features will interupt the GRD for the selenoid if so eqpt'd

you need to probe the key and should have +12 on BATT then it must transfer to S when the key is turned... then it must reach the selenoid


at the very least turn and hold the key on START then wiggle shake prod all the wiring. if you get a starter reaction you found the problem .


in conclusion you need to track down the +12v if does not reach the selenoid whatever the reason. use a test lamp to ground or a VOM one side to grd.

I found that I wasn't grounded from the solenoid to the block. Thanks!

 

[Crosbyman]

great glad you found the problem .. keep that spare selenoid

another happy ending !