Stator check ...1983 115 Johnson V4

[RiverMan]

Hello <br />Still working on 115TLCT<br />Problem: Top cylinders without electric current.<br />Compression check 120/125<br />Replace fuel line and fuel filter and Plugs- champion L77JC4. <br />Today I traced all the wires for any damages. Found melted spot on the rectifier. Also removed the flywheel and found small rust on the side of the stator and the housing bolts(4).Found not cracks, bubbles or burns on stator and timer base, too.( If is ok to clean this rust with a sandpaper #120 without touching the wiring around the stator)<br /> How I can test the stator with the multimeter...I will like to rule out if the stator is the problem. Them continue checking the powerpacks(2). If one of the powerpacks is bad that can affect 2 cylinders. <br />Well, it is possible to disconect one of the powerpacks and tried to crank the engine to rule out which powerpack is bad... <br />Thanks all of you for the cooperation<br />RiverMan

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Stator check ...1983 115 Johnson V4

If you refer to your other posted questions you were given this web site to check http://outboardparts.com/troubleshooting/troubleshooting3.htm This gives a good explanation...in addition I have a Clymer manual and it devotes an entire chapter to testing the electrical system. Get the manual ... it's my best suggestion.<br /><br />Bob

 

[almost retired again]

Re: Stator check ...1983 115 Johnson V4

Hi Riverman,<br />Yes you can remove the rust,but the rust won't effect it that much. There is no known insulator for magnetic lines of flux.<br />On to the other question; there are two outputs on either side comming out from the stator that goes to the power pack on either side. One of the plugs on either side is the charge coil output to the power pack, it will have a brown and a brown/yellow lead. This is the stator output that charges the condenser in the power pack. This voltage is supposed to be measured with a DVA meter,or apeak reading meter. this voltage should read between 200 and 300 volts. This is a DC voltage seeing as how it is rectified either in the adaptor or in the meter itself. So if you don't have any of the meters suggested above you can still read the output with a regular multimeter. Select an AC scale that is higher than the voltage thats expected to be read take the<br /> voltage across the brown and brown/yellow leads then multiply the reading by 1.414 this will get you in the ball park and let you know if the charge coil is putting out (this reading must be taken while cranking the engine) Then take a reading from each of those to an engine ground,you should get no reading this will let you know that the coil isn't shorted to ground (again while cranking).<br />The next plug should have three wires,a white and two colored wires(not sure of the colors I don't have any books at home).Anyway this plug is the sensor coils output that tell the the condenser in the pack when to fire,or discharge. Put the multimeter on the lowest AC scale and take the readings between the white and the colored leads while cranking. you will probly only see a deflection on the meter scale thats OK as the SCR that it goes to only takes a very small voltage to open the gate and once opened it won't close again untill the condenser is discharged. Again check the leads to ground(no voltage)this insures that the sensors arn't grounded.<br />These are the inputs to the powerpacks if they are good then the problem is either the pack,or the coil that goes to the plug.<br />I know that I'll probly get lots of flack over this but it works, I've did this for many years.I don't like to take my expensive fluke to the water.<br />I hope this helps

 

[RiverMan]

Re: Stator check ...1983 115 Johnson V4

I will check this tomorrow.<br />Thanks, both for taking the time on this subject<br /> RiverMan