Stator Readings - Reality vs the Manual; Classic 50

[stpierce]

I have a 1989 Mercury Classic 50 (Serial - ob394639, Model - 1045312GD, 4 cylinder 2 stroke 45HP) that would not restart if I ran at WOT and then turned it off. It almost behaved as if flooded. That happened a couple times and now it won't start. Problem is that there was no spark at the plugs. So I pulled out the multimeter and started testing and it turns out it was a bad stator.
So I purchased a new stator to replace my 3985454a25, which looks like they didn't make anymore so I got the CDI 174-5454K1 to replace it. I installed and still had no spark in any cylinder. Checked the stator and got a resistance reading of 2.14 Kohms on Blue to Blue/White and 47.8 ohms on Red to Red/white. I then bought another stator and did nothing but check the resistance, which it matched - 2.13 and 47, and returned it.
My Seloc manual says that the resistance range across Blue & Blue/White should be 5.7 - 8.0 Kohms and Red & Red/White should be 56-76.
I have no idea what to do next? Could the stator being out of spec be the issue and if so, I have no idea how to find one that is within spec according to the Seloc manual. Or is that close enough to spec and it's something else in the electrical system (it's not kill switch wire, or the switch box - it tests barely under spec but is really close)
Any help would be super appreciated.

 

[racerone]

No money testing -.-----Have your battery load tested.------Pull starter apart for inspection and an ohm check on the armature.

 

[Faztbullet]

A CDI stator will have a different reading than a OEM.....and get a OEM manual and use the Selco for TP

 

[stpierce]

racerone, I'm not having any issues with the starter turning the motor. This sounds dumb, but as long as the starter is spinning the flywheel and the battery is passing its checks, then the starter is good, right?

Faztbullet, good to know it will have different readings than the OEM stator. I assume different doesn't inherently mean that it won't work? If that's the case, I will just keep trying to check every electrical component I can find. Off to youtube again.

 

[racerone]

The starter needs to spin the flywheel ---FAST---in order to generate voltages for spark at the plugs.-----The battery is NOT directly involved with making spark.----I am not there to see the behavior of your motor !----I suggest no money stuff for you to inspect.

 

[sam am I]

I'd think if it were the starter not spinning fast enough causing the no spark, the same no spark failures would occur after normal runs as well? Not just intermittently after only a WOT run? Also, I'd think with a slower then normal crank , he'd still get some spark, it'd just be weak....perhaps yellow'ish spark in color.

My nickle bet would be trigger coil (or its associated wiring), switchbox (or its associated wiring) or kill switch (or its associated wiring)..........WOT sometimes equals higher vibration and also higher heat in switch box and coils due to highest voltage being induced. Both are pushing things to their limits and potentially breaking things down to where they are failing intermittently as experienced, only when ran WOT. .

Or not

 

[stpierce]

I try not to be the guy who never wraps up the thread he started, so I think I finally have the problem fixed. #1 issue was my spark gap tester. The tip had come partially unscrewed. - causing me to read no spark when there actually was one - stupid me. With the new stator in and the spark checker working properly the motor reluctantly fired up.
But, my engine got a semi frequent missed cylinder at WOT. After running for a bit, I could not start the engine because it seemed flooded. Finally, I could not get the engine to fire at all. Checked the switch box voltage with a DVA on my multimeter and it failed. Changed it out with a new one and I'm running great for now. Thanks for the help everyone.