Stator & Trigger tests

[The Force power]

I have all three plugs jump a gap of 7/16" but when I follow the checkout procedure I don't get the readings as I should;

-should have 3 volts coming out of trigger-wires --I get no reading
- 210 volts from switch-box to coil -- I get 35 volt going to one of the coils (#2)

I'm using a Fluke multi meter

 

[jerryjerry05]

You need a meter with DVA or Peak Reading Volt Meter.

 

[The Force power]

You need a meter with DVA or Peak Reading Volt Meter.

hi Jerryjerry,

I'm getting spotty internet connection up at camp, thanks for tuning in.
I know a Good multi meter will only get you so far the frustrating part is;
I have used this meter with other motors check out procedures & it would tell me, it reads up to 1000.AC volts but I guess that's irrelevant right now.

my question now; is it possible to get a good spark and still have a defective cdi box?
(it either being #1 or #2)

How is it possible to get a good spark on #1 (timing set at 28 WOT at cranking but no voltage out put from trigger?
that controls the firing & when

could it have something to do with; in what position the Stator is mounted? but how would I be able to set the timing right??

 

[jerryjerry05]

The position of the stator means nothing.
It shouldn't fit right if not on right??
The length of the wires makes it hard to install wrong.
The trigger sets the timing the stator just generates power and it would work if it was upside down(if you get it on )

You can get good spark if the packs bad .
There's a diode in the pack that supposed to stop it from firing at the wrong time.

Try swapping the packs around?.


You can have a meter that reads 10,000 volts but if it's not a DVA it won't give the results you need
DVA adaptors 15-25$ ebay

If your getting spark at #1 and no reading from the trigger tthat's probably the meter not being able to read the pulse.

 

[The Force power]

You can get good spark if the packs bad .
There's a diode in the pack that supposed to stop it from firing at the wrong time.

Try swapping the packs around?.


You can have a meter that reads 10,000 volts but if it's not a DVA it won't give the results you need
DVA adaptors 15-25$ ebay

If your getting spark at #1 and no reading from the trigger that's probably the meter not being able to read the pulse.

Thank you Jerry for the clarification,

So without a DVA-adapter I can not get an accurate reading/diagnose and get a good spark with a defective pack.

Luckily I have 2 spare Packs/ 1 Stator / 2 Triggers with me, unfortunately none of them confirmed to be any good (or bad)

This leaves me with just swapping out till hopefully I get right, thanks again for the clarification

 

[Redbarron%%]

Your Fluke may have a peak hold feature that would work for this application.
The problem is the rise time and duration will not read correctly with an averaging meter that does not hold the peak reading.

 

[The Force power]

Your Fluke may have a peak hold feature that would work for this application.
The problem is the rise time and duration will not read correctly with an averaging meter that does not hold the peak reading.

Now I feel really stupid! mine does have hold button, thank you for giving that kick in the a*s I needed. lol

 

[Nordin]

If you are handy you can build a DVA adapter.

The DVA adapter rectifier the AC voltage from the stator and charge it in a capacitor.

Search DVA adapter at the web and you get the schematic.
It contains a diode IN 4004 that can manage more then 400V an electrolyte capacitor 2,2 microfarads that can manage 400V or more and a resistor 1/4W 1 Mohm,

I have made my own DVA adapter........works great.

 

[The Force power]

If you are handy you can build a DVA adapter.

The DVA adapter rectifier the AC voltage from the stator and charge it in a capacitor.

Search DVA adapter at the web and you get the schematic.
It contains a diode IN 4004 that can manage more then 400V an electrolyte capacitor 2,2 microfarads that can manage 400V or more and a resistor 1/4W 1 Mohm,

I have made my own DVA adapter........works great.

Hi Nordin,

Thanks for the ingredients, I actually watch this Aussie guy (makes lots of youtube videos) explain how to built one)

I did get the motor running on all 3 today without swapping anything except the Carburetors (I have a 85 & 90 hp spare motors)

I swapped the Carbs. even thou I cleaned them twice & "looked" OK I wanted to eliminate the what if?
so it's running right now, however it is spitting fuel out of the air jet at the top.

after looking in the factory manual I have; the carbs I just put one seem to be for the 120 & 125 (all parts & motors not knowing its origin)

but I will have to start a new Topic about this

 

[jerryjerry05]

The carbs from a 120/125 are probably too big to fit???

The only part that might change is the jets, and maybe the air screw(maybe)