Stern Drive Removal

[Boilers2000]

Planning on pulling the stern drive in a few weeks to replace bellows, gaskets, trim sensor and limit switch, etc. Etc. Any hints or lesson learned from others that have talked the same project?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[thumpar]

What drive?

 

[tpenfield]

Pulling the drive is pretty straight forward. Changing the bellows is a bit tedious and you should have the Mercruiser service manual handy to use as a guide.

 

[Boilers2000]

Its an Alpha One Gen 2 bell housing but an SEI 116 upper and lower unit. I have Mercruiser #14 service manual for stern drives, and it seems like a daunting task. I also think my bell housing seal is leaking, and that seems like the most difficult part. Any ideas on what a overhaul would be ( pull stern drive and bell housing, replace gaskets, trim switches etc)?

 

[Rick Stephens]

While you are there, do the lower shift cable as well. I would recommend you only use the OEM Mercruiser Bellows Kit. The fact you have an SEI outdrive matters not, it is the same as a Mercruiser unit, just made by someone else.

 

[tpenfield]

Its an Alpha One Gen 2 bell housing but an SEI 116 upper and lower unit. . . . . Any ideas on what a overhaul would be ( pull stern drive and bell housing, replace gaskets, trim switches etc)?

It would be a lot of 'fun'

The difficult part about the bellows is the fact that they are mission critical. So, you really want to take your time and get it right. I do the bellows and hoses on my twin Bravo outdrives a couple of years ago. It was not too bad, but not something you look forward to . . .

 

[Boilers2000]

That is my understanding if the SEI drives..uses same parts as mercruiser just built by someone else. Thankfully the service manuals help walk through the process before I tear into it.

I'll keep trying to digest the service manual...have an annoying little leak, that I dont think is from the Y-section of the exhaust since the water is cold when so my thought is I have a leak in a bellow or some other gasket. Wasn't there when I did the sea trial, but the boat wants used very often the previous few years and now it's being used weekly so I think some dried out runner finally cracked.

 

[greno]

Check those two lower aluminum bolts. When those get corroded it starts to let water seep into the bilge.
If those are the problem usually the engine has to come out unless you have a 3.0L in which case you can change them with the engine still in the boat.

 

[harringtondav]

An important detail is remember to shift your controller into FWD and leave it there
When you reinstall make sure the drive is in FWD so it couples correctly. Don't overdo the bellows adhesive and let it get tacky before pushing or pulling the bellows on.

Shift cable bellows first then driveshaft. Exhaust last. Two special tools make a big difference. The retaining ring driver for the bell housing end of the driveshaft bellows, and the expander tool for the bell housing end of the exhaust bellows.

You will need to remove the upper shift lever to use the tool. Be very careful with the screw in the arm. It's set in green Loctite and wants to strip the slot before it gives up.

 

[achris]

Check those two lower aluminum bolts. When those get corroded it starts to let water seep into the bilge.....

It's a Gen II, those bolts aren't bolts, they're studs, and they are steel...

Chris........

 

[Boilers2000]

It's a 4.3LX...is it safe to assume that the engine has to come out to address all the stern drive components. The trim position insulation us worn away and I'm not getting a reading so I want to fix that and was trying to knock out as much additional maintenance as I could when trying to fix that. This was a starter boat that I'd like to get 1 more season out of before trading up. Is it worth overhauling everything or should I just keep up with the routine maintenance? Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[harringtondav]

I didn't read anything in your issues list that would warrant an engine pull - yet. All the repairs you suspect can be made by pulling the outdrive and bell hsg. Once you get the old bellows removed you'll have a clear shot at the trim senders replacement. Get a 7/16 ratcheting pivot head "Gear Wrench" to access the cap screw on the senders grommet clamp. It's tight-tight in there, but with a helper pulling the wires and grommet from the inside, you'll get the cap screw started on the new sender's wires.

I don't want to lead you into scope creep since you're considering trading this boat. But since you're this deep into it, check your gimbal bearing. You'll be looking it right in the face, and have the best opportunity to replace it if necessary.

Replace your bellows, bell hsg. seal and other recommend parts above, and see if your bilge dries up. If so, go from there with your plans. You will have a dry transom & gimbal hsg assy. Next boat.............

 

[dlogvine]

I just did bellows replacement on two boats about a month ago. First of all, dont save money on a cheap chinese bellows kits, but genuine Sierra or Mercruiser kits. This rubber will last 5-6 years vs 1-2 years for cheap chinese junk. Exhaust bellows is better to buy separately, half sleeve, something like
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Tu...321478&hash=item56512782a0:g:IREAAOSwcu5UOC~d

Next, since you are replacing the bearing, get a bearing installation tool and alignment tool. you probably need an expansion tool for bellows, otherwise it would be extremely difficult to pull bellows on the outdrive.
When installing the bearing, I made a mistake of tapping it in, afraid to damage it. it caused the bearing to be a little off from the flashed position, which in it turn, did not let me install the outdrive until my mechanic smacked it really hard a couple time with the installation tool and set it all the way in. If you dont have an outdrive stand, my advise would be to build a quick 2x4 or 2x2 board one. also put rollers on the bottom of the stand, it will make the job of dragging the outdrive back and fourt much easier.
And last thing I can say, if you think on finish the job in some period of time, double it
good luck and have fun.
P.S. wear latex or rubber gloves when working with bellows adhesives, this crap is toxic

 

[JASinIL2006]

Do yourself a favor and only use OEM bellows... no GLM, Sierra or Ebay no-names. Have the Merc service manual (not Soloc or other copies) and watch lots of Youtube videos. It’s a big job, but doable if you are fairly handy.