Re: Strange warning alarm behavior
(Warning Horn Wire Routing)
(J. Reeves)
The three wire plastic warning horn that came into existence with the VRO era must have the wires connected in one manner only. To have them reversed results in having the horn omit erratic false warnings. Notice that the horn has two plug on type terminals and one black wire that is incorporated within the horn. The "TAN" (sensor) wire must be connected to the terminal closest to that black wire..... with the "PURPLE" (12v) wire connected to the terminal fartherest away from that black wire.
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(Testing Warning Horn)
(J. Reeves)
On VRO equipped engines where the VRO automatic fuel/oil setup is still being used, make sure that all components are connected as required. This would include the VRO pump wiring harness itself, the oil tank wiring, the overheat sensor(s), and if so equipped.... the vacuum switch that is standard to many V6 & V8 engines.
If the VRO automatic setup has been eliminated and has been disconnected properly, and the fuel and oil is being premixed, make sure that the overheat sensors are still connected, and the vacuum switch if the engine is so equipped.
On engines prior to 1984 which have no VRO setup, ignore the instructions pertaining to the VRO components, etc above.
Turn the key to the ON position (Engine Not Running). Find the TAN wire at the cylinder head(s), then ground out the portion of that wire that is part of the engine wiring harness. If that Tan wire connector has the knife type connector where as it is exposed simply by sliding the rubber insulator back, it does not need to be disconnected.
Grounding that TAN wire should cause the horn to sound. If it does not, find out why as that's the only warning you'll receive should the engine overheat or have some portion of the VRO system fail, or have the engine encounter a fuel retsriction if it is equipped with a vacuum switch.
When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
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(Odd Soundings Of Warning Horn)
(J. Reeves)
Should the warning horn beep constantly when the key is turned to the ON position rather than sounding just a short beep as it should, do the following test.
Remove the TAN wire from the horn. If the constant beeping continues, the horn is faulty, in which case replace it. However, on the other hand, if the beeping stops, something has gone wrong with one of the sensor components at the engine, in which case start disconnecting the TAN wires that are connected to the various components (Heat Sensors, VRO, Vacuum Switch if so equipped, Oil Tank). Disconnecting a unit and having the beeping stop...... you've found the faulty component.
NOTE: The small black plastic horn that has a built in black ground wire...... The TAN wire must be attached to the terminal closest to that black wire. Otherwise weird things will happen.
When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
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(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)
1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.
2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
