Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

aspenshayn

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
24
I'm replacing my deck in 92 Malibu sunsetter. I began by drilling hole in top of stringer and it was complete mush. I cut the fiberglass off the top of the stringer and it was a soupy mess. I dug it all out and it left a perfect solid fiberglass form of a stringer. (I now don't know original form or template for stringer.) Can I fill it an epoxy/fine sawdust mix just like I would with a cement form. Or can I cut new stringers to a close match and put epoxy in the bottom of the form, put the wood in and then fill epoxy around it. once I get it close to the correct height/form of original stringer, I would glass over the length of the stringer.

Thoughts on this would be great.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

I would not do it that way, you need to have a good bond between the wood and outer glass, which I don't think you could get doing it that way. Why not just to it the tried and tested way, bed a new wood stringer on the hull then glass over it. If your stuck on using the old shell, the only way I'd do it is to use a pour in casting like Seacast, or Nidabond.
 

aspenshayn

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
24
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

Thanks for the input. The only issue is not knowing how to shape the stringer to the hull. I have nothing to pattern off of. Do I just keep guessing at the right shape and keep shaving and shaping until it's right?
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

Thanks for the input. The only issue is not knowing how to shape the stringer to the hull. I have nothing to pattern off of. Do I just keep guessing at the right shape and keep shaving and shaping until it's right?

Its not that hard to get it close. But you can sit the wood on there and use a compass, run the compass down the hull and the pencil mounted draws on the wood, that will give you your profile. You bed the stringer in PL or PB, so it doesn't have to be exact.
 

RFLORY

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Messages
18
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

I was wondering about this approach as well. My thought was to pour in some Seacast, or Nidabond to fill the stringer cavity about half full, then press the plywood into that and then top it off with more Seacast, or Nidabond. I will keep an eye on this post to see if there are more comments.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

First off Welcome to the iBoats Forum!

Making Stringer conform to the hull of your boat is NOT an exact science. The bedding compound will make up for any slight discrepancies you might have. You must take measurements on the Hull sides to get the proper Deck Height but again this is NOT Rocket science and you CAN do this quite easily. Having cut the top of your glass stringers off makes them shorter than required so it will not be possible to POUR Seacast Stringers without doing some modifications to them anyway. My suggestion is to remove all the old wood and glass and start with NEW FRESS WOOD and Glass. That way you will KNOW that your boat will be Solid and Sound and will last for 30+ years with NO PROBLEMS. We here on iBoats will be there to help you through the entire process. Just ask Parrisw!!;)
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

the reason this in not uasually done is because

1. it is a real hassle
2. it is very hard to get any kind of a bond between the old glass and new wood.
3. you still have to glass over it all again any how.
4. it uasually costs more money and time.

leaving the glass channels, means you will have bad glass prep in the inner side of the old glass.....bad prep means poor bond.

after the strings are out......a quick trip with the grinder to remove the old glass takes 10 minits a stringer.....then you are done that phase!.
fitting the new stringer is easy....glassing is a breeze, and you KNOW its done right!.

cheers
oops
 

aspenshayn

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
24
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

The old stringer is out of the center left. outer left and both right side stringers are solid, no rot. took foam out, probably ended up weighing 500+ pounds if I put it all together.

So now the plan is to put in the new stringer. I know this is posted around here, but just as easy to ask. what do I use as a bedding compound and do I go with the pour in foam (that's what was in it before)? I've read a lot of stories and had comments on putting in swimming noodles or 2 liter bottles, sounds out there. Also, how do I create a channel to let water out should it get in there some how? there was standing water between voids in the foam when I pulled the deck off.

I'll post some pics tonight.

Thanks for all your input!
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: Stringer Repair, never heard this approach so there is probably a reason.

The old stringer is out of the center left. outer left and both right side stringers are solid, no rot. took foam out, probably ended up weighing 500+ pounds if I put it all together.

So now the plan is to put in the new stringer. I know this is posted around here, but just as easy to ask. what do I use as a bedding compound and do I go with the pour in foam (that's what was in it before)? I've read a lot of stories and had comments on putting in swimming noodles or 2 liter bottles, sounds out there. Also, how do I create a channel to let water out should it get in there some how? there was standing water between voids in the foam when I pulled the deck off.

I'll post some pics tonight.

Thanks for all your input!

You best bet is to not let water get down there in the first place. Mine is totally sealed, its the way the boat is designed, make sure you deck is sealed very well, and you shouldn't have any problems for years to come.
 
Top