Stringer repair

Saddlehorse

Seaman
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
63
1987 Avanti 170DLI .
Was going to do some spring work on the boat and pulled up floor for some soft spots only to realize previous owner already halfway replaced floor . Anyways stringers are rottes of course, fiberglass that incases them are still really good and strong.
being itbis a 1987 model Avanti I do not want to put alot of money in her. Talked some guys that really recommended pouring them with Arjay 6011 . So I talked to the company that makes it and they said they have never personally tested it for use on stringers and felt it was too rigid.
so what are you alls opinions on this? Used the boat all last summer and even pulling tubes and never had any issues or flex in hull. Only reason I noticed was once floor was removed the fiberglass caps on bulkheads was coming loose so I pulled one up and on one stringer also and the wood inside is just wet mulch .
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,803
you can't fill the stringers unless you get the wood out first unless I'm missing something. Personally, I would rip out and replace the stringers and rebuilt to factory design. The structure of the boat was engineering to support the dynamic loading it will encounter. Removing the wood and filling the stringers with a different material may not be sufficient... it also MAY be sufficient... Point is, no on here can answer that question, so we can only give the advice to rebuild the way it was, just better craftsmanship :D
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
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14,605
IF, and that is a big IF, you like the boat and want to continue using it, take the time to do the right repairs and you will enjoy it for decades to come. On the other hand, if you don't want to spend the money, sell it but make sure you at least info the new buyer of the issues. OR you can scrap it all together. You choice... JMHO
 

Saddlehorse

Seaman
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Aug 21, 2018
Messages
63
The plan was as stated to remove the old wood, read a bunch on the hull truth site of people poring strongers so figured I would ask here. Absolutely no interest in going back with original style for a few reasons, dont plan on keeping this boat more than another a year , dont wanna spend much money on a 1987 model as it would cost 3 times it value in materials alone and just dont have the time for all that extra work . Thanks for the input.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,738
Good Luck
I'm a member there and their info is nothing like you will get here.
Biggest thing to get over is its a total rehab. DeNial ain't just a river ya see. Been there done that.
Keep us posted.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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The Arjay stuff seems to be better suited for transoms than stringers . . . same goes for Seacast. . .

BUT . . . if the stringers were well encased in fiberglass . . . AND if you can clear out all of the rotted wood, mulch, etc., Then you could certainly have a go at re-coring them without a full 'cut & gut' restoration.

As far as money . . . it looks like the Arjay is $50/gallon :noidea: So, you will have to figure out how that plays into the economics.

Additionally, since it is stringers that you are fixing, and not a transom, I would add some fiberglass cloth to the core of the stringers so that the Arjay has much more tensile strength once it cures.

Anyway, posting up some pictures of your situation will help with responses.
 

garbageguy

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
1,598
Interesting idea to add fiberglass cloth to core of a poured stringer to add tensile strength. Assume that would be similar to adding rebar to concrete, or geogrid to soil for MSE berm construction. Ted thinks outside the box, and shares - cool!
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Interesting idea to add fiberglass cloth to core of a poured stringer to add tensile strength. Assume that would be similar to adding rebar to concrete, or geogrid to soil for MSE berm construction. Ted thinks outside the box, and shares - cool!

I've actually used geogrid for some retaining walls that I built. :)
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Using composite Pour In material for stringers has been done many times here on the forum but...It's a LOT more costly and Wood Core Stringers, when fabricated and installed correctly will last for decades. There is NO cheap and easy way to restore a boat. It all takes Time, ITCHY hard work and dedication. Boats are NOT a inexpensive hobby sooooo... If you want the boat and want it safe, you'll have to do the work. You should be able to Re-String this boat in 2 weeks and spend around $200 doing it. If you work 8 hour days you could do it in less than a week.
 

Redtruck12

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 25, 2018
Messages
344
I think $200 and 2 weeks is quite unrealistic for the average guy.
stringers front to rear with the usual complications, demo, cutting, grinding, sanding, figuring and measuring, fitting and re fitting, bulkheads, engine mounts, wood, glass, resin, decking..... the list will grow as you get going. How are you set for tools? Grinding discs saw blades, sanding discs....
chances are likely that once you get into it the transom will need work too,
engine will need to come out, Hull will need to be supported out drive will need to come off??
anyone who can do all that in 2 weeks of evenings and weekends and a couple hundred bucks is welcome to come and finish my boat😉
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,478
for what its worth, I did the engine mounts and transom and portions of the stringers in my 1984 Avanti 170 DLI with SeaCast.

it was 3X the cost of doing it with wood and glass

I guarantee on the Avanti, if the stringers are gone, the transom left years ago

the good news is the Avanti is easy to remove the cap, I did it myself with 6 ratchet straps from the rafters in about 2 hours from taking the first screw out of the rub-rail. there are 3 screws in the bow tub where it meets the cockpit floor. just dig around in the carpet, you will find them. steering, controls, wiring, etc all stay with the cap.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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I think $200 and 2 weeks is quite unrealistic for the average guy.
stringers front to rear with the usual complications, demo, cutting, grinding, sanding, figuring and measuring, fitting and re fitting, bulkheads, engine mounts, wood, glass, resin, decking..... the list will grow as you get going. How are you set for tools? Grinding discs saw blades, sanding discs....
chances are likely that once you get into it the transom will need work too,
engine will need to come out, Hull will need to be supported out drive will need to come off??
anyone who can do all that in 2 weeks of evenings and weekends and a couple hundred bucks is welcome to come and finish my boat😉

Umm 40 hours of non stop in interrupted work should be more than enough time to cut out a deck and the stringers and fabricate and install new ones. IF you are doing it Nights and weekends then I agree it would take more Days and Nights but the Number of Total hours involved should be about the same. If you have to wait on materials then that doesn't count. I was talking merely about total Labor Time. Every situation is different but...if you have materials on hand and dedicated time, I still contend that 40 hours is ample time to accomplish the task on a 17 foot boat and doing JUST the stringers. Transom, Motor Mounts etc are NOT in the equation of the original question.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,478
for a first-timer on a restoration with an Avanti, I would go more with 120 hours. That includes pulling the drive and motor, uncaping, building a cradle (even building it on the trailer), removing the carpeting, cutting out sections of floors/stringers/etc, rebuilding, swearing, getting bandages, reading forums for guidelines, etc.

that does not include rebuilding the cooler or bow locker hatches because the original plastic ones broke
that does not include re-upholstering because the wood in all the trim and seats has long since rotted
that does not include any rebuilding of the motor and drive.

and no mater what, remember.........
100_0304.JPG
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
With all the comments and good advice, is the OP actually going to do any of this or even interested in refurbishing it? I ask because doesn't seem to be responding to the ideas posted...
 

Saddlehorse

Seaman
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
63
Sorry , had alot going on and havent got to read the comments or respond. Will be reading them today . And yes I am interested in repairing, just had alot going on with health issues lately. Thanks for the info
 

Saddlehorse

Seaman
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
63
Alot of good info posted here, thanks guys.
i have done some studying and decided against the pour in stuff for stringers. Only part of transom rotted is around drain plug up to one side around bottom bolt for out drive .
stringers and floor are mulch .
Read alot of guys just cleaning out the old wood from stringers and bedding new wood inside the old fiberglass casing (cant think of name for fiberglass around stringer core) and recapping with fresh fiberglass.
opinions on that method? The old wood is rather easy to clean out as I have pulled alot out woth my finger and a shop vac since none is solid that I have seen yet .
thanks for the advice and sorry I disappeared for a while.
 
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