Stubborn flywheel (1989 Johnson 120)

PaulCT

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
8
Ok, you've seen this topic several times before. I've been struggling a few days and the thing won't budge. I've done this job over 20 years ago on a ~1970 Johnson 65, and I've been using pretty standard advice that you'll find on this and other online forums. I definitely realize this task can use all sorts of patience and persistence (with my personality, I have a bit of both), but I admit I am getting a bit discouraged :-( I'm not so sure I'm going to glean anything new, but maybe even some cheerleading and stories of other similar challenges will keep my head up.

BTW, I'm removing the flywheel after getting stranded with no spark (the kids were good about it and kept swimming :). Peak voltage testing of the stator (using a DVA peak-reading adapter) indicates only about 30 V: bad stator.

The flywheel nut removal was uneventful. I picked up an el-cheapo three-bolt puller from Autozone. After some initial use with the supplied bolts, one bolt stripped (I used the correct 5/16" 24 tpi). I may be guilty of not threading them in deep enough, they were in about 7 threads, but these bolts do not appear to be grade 8. I was a little concerned about damage to the flywheel threads, and would consider drilling and re-tapping with the next size fine thread (3/8-24), but after putting in new grade 8 bolts, the threads are holding nicely with the center bolt torqued down much more than with the original bolts.

I've been reluctant to give any more than light blows to the puller center bolt for fear of damaging the bottom crank bearing. I've also been reluctant to apply heat for fear of compromising the crank upper seal, bonding of the flywheel magnets, or the electronics (I suppose with the stator being removed, all that's left is the sensor).

On the first day, I had the puller center bolt torqued down to about 60-70 ft-lbs, and gave some minor blows with a standard 16 oz hammer. No luck, but not surprised. I let PB blaster soak in overnight.

The next day after work, I torqued down a bit more, and hit the puller center bolt little harder. Still no luck. OK, some are tougher than others... More PB blaster overnight. Also, I notice the puller is starting to deformed.

I'm now at the third or fourth day... I torqued the puller down to about 85 ft-lb, and it is visibly deformed. I even took the pressure off, it looks to have permanently deformed, as it bowed with no pressure on it. I have it back up to about 85 ft-lb.

After some reading iboat forums, I put a couple of wooden wedges between the crankcase and flywheel about 120 apart. I would have liked to have them more symmetric, but with the real-estate that I have, that's about the best I'll be able to do. My thought here is that in addition to providing additional "steady" force, this would also help reduce the impact of heavier blows to the center puller bolt.

Today, I dragged my upright 30 gal compressor to the marina (the boat is docked - I'm putting on entertainment for all the people with properly working boats) and wheeled it down 35 steps (the return trip was even more fun) so that I could use an impact wrench on the puller. I figure this shouldn't be nearly as damaging to the bearings since the impact is torsional rather than axial. No electric on this particular dock, so I just went with the 130 psi, 30 gal that was in the tank. Used it all up, still not budging. A kind soul saw my struggles and offered me his 7 amp electric impact wrench and power inverter... Still no luck.

After that, I hit the thing a bit harder (very reluctantly) with the blunt edge of an axe (estimate 5 lbs - I don't have a 32 oz hammer lying around). I'm not putting any muscle into it, just dropping under it's own weight about 6-8 inches. Reluctantly doing so... and hoping the wedges lessen any impact to the bearing. Still no motion. Also avoiding any harder blows.

I also reluctantly applied a bit of heat to the inner edge of the flywheel, not too much. Still no luck.

Tired, a bit discouraged. Let things cool a bit, applied more PB blaster with the thing under load and left.

Any advice, stories, cheerleading?!

For starters, I'm thinking about getting a better puller. This "OEM" branded one is flexing. Because of the arrangement for two- and three- bolt configurations, one leg appears to be deforming more. I'd much prefer a puller without "legs", like a hockey puck. It looks like the $150 evinrude puller is the best... Any recommendations on good pullers?

Even so, I'm not sure how much further I can load this thing up before I compromise the 5/16"-24 threads. Any suggestions here? Should I just continue to torque it down? 100 ft-lb? beyond? If I'm, correct, the bolt should fail before the threads?

Thank you!

Paul
 

PaulCT

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
8
To give you an idea of the struggle, here is a picture of the puller, bowing under load. Notice the two wedges, about 120 deg apart.






Paul
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Is this a salty one? I have ruined quite a few snap - on pullers without ever getting them off. some are just there "." forever.

I think i would, at this point, remove puller, Useing a brass drift tap down ward around the crank to "re-seat" the fly wheel. Buy a snap on or mac or OMC or quality puller that wont bend, try again. Maybe light heat from propane. What do you have to loose.
 

tblshur

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
688
PaulCT the first 2 i got off i struggled with all the heat hammer to puller bolt,and lots more i just did another i found that advance auto has loaner puller a good one and found that getting the bolts exactly same length from fly wheel to puller jaw and the puller bolt exactly vertical, maybe 80 to 100 ft lbs not sure then take a light hammer like a claw hammer just ding on the flat surface of flywheel not hard enough to put marks in it just make it ring a little ,go around the flat surface several times may have to retorque a little .worked for me, i hope it work for you:joyous:
 

PaulCT

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
8
Thanks to both jakedaawg and tblshur...

I'm going to pull the puller (pun intended), it's probably doing more harm than good at this point (bending the bolts, uneven load on the threads, uneven load on the flywheel possibly causing it to "bind"), and get my hands on a good puller, preferably the actual evinrude tool itself. It looks much more solid, rather than the "cantilevered" legs which bend. I'll also check up on advance auto puller per tblshur's recommendation.

jakedaawg: you mention re-seating with a brass drift. Are you concerned that the uneven load may be causing "binding". Do you suggest tapping the crank, or the flywheel? I agree, nothing to loose. If heat ends up loosening the magnets, I can re-epoxy.

It is somewhat of a salty-dog... this is the first year in freshwater on the CT river, but prior to that it was my Dads on Long Island, NY, but almost always trailered. My Dad passed away and I just took the boat up north where I now live. Fond memories: my Dad purchased it 1 yr old in 1971 (I was 2 yrs at the time), and I have pictures of me driving at ~6 yrs... Back then it was a 1970 85 Hp with the old "Selectric" electric shift. With all the memories, I'm driven to get this thing running. I intend to be more stubborn than the flywheel! Let's see who wins this battle...

Thanks again guys, it's a great community here.

Paul
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,135
remember to keep the nut on as that flywheel and puller can become quite a fast projectile if it goes off all of a sudden.
I have being in this circumstance before. I had a three sided harmonic balancer buller, the strain took off the threads on the actual centre bolt of the puller.
I took it to the local boat mechanic who has got 35yers experience so the ad says.
He couldnt get it off with his puller using an impact wrench either, he reckoned he had never seen one this bad, i seem to hear that quote quite frequently.
He got it off in the end using a blow torch to the flywheel until it got red hot and then one whack with a dead blow hammer on the top o the puller and pop.
He didnt want money but i insisted, i could never of got that off.
He tried with only medium heat and that didnt work, it needed to get real hot.
No damage was done to anything under the flywheel from this, maybe i got lucky but he seemed to know what to do
Good luck
ps i put a towel over it when im doing it too in case anything shoots towards me fast
shame the photos arent working, a bent puller is an impressive effort
 

PaulCT

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
8
After four days with the cheap "OEM" branded puller torqued to about 80 ft-lb (which became severely bent), PB blaster, wedges forced between the flywheel and crankcase, mild strikes and some heat, I decided to rent a much better puller from autozone (thank you tblshur for the recommendation). I managed to torque this puppy up to 140 ft-lb, no sign of deformation to the puller. I continued with soaking with PB blaster, wedges, mild hammer strikes and more mild heat... After three more days of this, still no luck(!!!! #$%&*).

So, with a planned week-long vacation to OBX on the 17th, I decided to bite the bullet: pulled the boat out of the water and trailered her to an Evinrude certified shop with three purported 30 yr mechanics (does this count as being defeated?!). I received a good-news phone call while on vacation that the flywheel was removed. I asked how hard of a job it was - they guy I spoke with didn't do the actual work, but said the mechanics indicated "it was hard, but not the hardest". Bill was only $60, so it didn't take them that long... I'd like to think that my previous sweat had something to do with it... kind of like when you can't get the jar lid off, and pass it to someone who gets it on their first attempt. So, I'll blissfully accept some credit :)

Put the new stator on, the boat is now back in the water and running fine. Whew...
 
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