Stuck Penta Duoprop outdrive

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
I have looked the depths of google and forums for how to get my outdrive off to do an engine swap and maintanence. Note: this outdrive may have never been pulled and hasn’t run in a few years(boot was cracked also). I purchased the Seloc guide and followed instructions and correctly have shift cable disconnected and trim disconnected + removed 6 bolts. Also it is on a built stand. Still No Free movement.
I tried the board to the transom and using the trim to pull it off. I did get more movement but when I get the trim off it comes back together. Tried to pry apart now that it seemed free. No luck
i have gotten about as far as only having a few threads on the studs before it is off, but is in a jam either topwards or from the bottom.
I am thinking maybe the driveshaft is rusted to the gimble bearing causing it not to pass a certain point? We sprayed PB Blaster inside the boot in any direction and left it overnight. We have spent about 10 hrs trying to get this.
Seperate subject,
When I spin my prop my driveshaft does not spin, no matter which way I select the gear lever.
Thanks for any help
 

Attachments

  • photo291754.jpg
    photo291754.jpg
    326.4 KB · Views: 0

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,205
throw the seloc manual away.

get the factory manual (you can also view on-line here http://162.144.28.33/lib/library.html

your drive looks to have been seriously neglected.

the forward prop looks to have a large cut in it.

pull the props (you may have to cut them off)

use wood wedges and the tilt rams to brute force it off

then get new gimble bearing, you may need a new input shaft. you will need a new set of bellows, and probably a seal job.
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
The drive looks so dirty because we tried to run the engine but the block is cracked. Lots of problems with the engine. Exhaust water was black. The rams push as far as about 3 threads left to go before it seems like way too much pressure and there is a lot of creaking mixed with it being an uneven pull. Should I just keep ramming it, I just don’t want to bend the studs. Are all those things you listed able to be done by a DIYer. My helper is a retired aircraft mechanic
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
Here is a short video if it running. Look at the exhaust water. We couldn’t get it to go in reverse or forward so we’re replacing the shift cable also
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,205
cracked block and potentially busted drive.....I hope you didnt pay money for this really expensive project boat

Motor and drive repairs will easily exceed $3k, probably closer to $5k

the ability for you or anyone to perform the required repairs is limited by knowledge and tools.

black exhaust water could simply be soot from running rich.
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
Yes we had water in the oil too. We have a new engine on the way. I’m just hoping that beside a new gimble bearing and maybe a drive/u-joint we may be back running, so we will try pushing it further with the trim and a board. I’ll give an update as we move forward
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,442
Since the engine has to come out why not go ahead and do it. Hopefully the bind is the gimbal bearing and not the drive coupling. If the engine does come out then you can do the wedge trick with the rams and pound the hell out of the shaft to drive it out. If the engine is stuck to the coupling then the only way may be with a cutting torch on the shaft with someone holding a garden hose if there is no gas or oil in the bilge.
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
“Hopefully the bind is in the gimble bearing and not the drive coupling”
What and where is the drive coupling?
How many inches does the drive shaft spline go into the engine? If I can seperate the outdrive that much, then maybe I can pull the engine and get at the shaft from the back
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,396
I had one stuck bad a few years ago, so bad that when it came apart the gimbal was seized to the shaft and came out with it. If you go prying with anything you will probably damage the casing. I think you will have to use the hydraulic force of the rams. Try placing slightly larger boards in the saddle and wedges as you progress to get a more linear push. The other option is to pull the engine and knock it off from the inside, you may severely damage the input shaft and u joints doing that, assuming they are worth saving anyway. Grease it up really good when you re-assemble, so that you do not go through this again.
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
Went at it again tonight. Made more headway with the board and the hydraulics. A big thud! And finally the bottom set of screws are free from the outdrive. But it’s jamming on the top 4 screws. Those who have done this, do you just keep trimming up. Even if it seems like it’s in a bind? Here’s a second picture of how far we’ve got it separated now(trimmed back down to relieve pressure overnight
 

Attachments

  • photo291795.jpg
    photo291795.jpg
    245.7 KB · Views: 0

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,442
Look behind the engine where the shaft engages the coupling, if you can see splines then the gimbal bearing is holding the shaft. If so then do like I said earlier and pull the engine. If the coupling is the problem you will either see a large ring of rubber or an aluminum sleeve that is pulling out of the coupling.
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
Ok I will check, there isn’t much room to see behind the engine. If the splines are free I’ll just pull it. Then cut the drive shaft is what you’re suggesting?
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,396
Your close. I would try to put a non marring wedge(s) between the two halves, such as a chainsaw wedges and see if between tightening the wedges and the rams if you cant get the last few inches that you may need.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,442
If the engine comes out then as said before you will be able to hammer the shaft out while using the rams to assist in forcing the drive back.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
I may have missed it, but have you removed the two pins ? The ones that are threaded and usually need a sliding hammer to remove ?
 

Fireman78

Seaman
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
54
Thanks for the help everyone. We finally got it off. I do have a further question. Where the boots mount on the transom side it is crumbling where it clamps on. It seems that that part is one big piece. What is the part called. How do I find an affordable one? Refer to the pictures
 

Attachments

  • photo291946.jpg
    photo291946.jpg
    558.5 KB · Views: 0
  • photo291947.jpg
    photo291947.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 0

kdiddle

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 22, 2018
Messages
147
Well, it looks like you've made progress getting it off, but that unit is going to need some long overdue love in the way of parts/service.

I haven't seen the model #'s for your transom assembly / gimbal housing and such, but there is a tremendous amount of information (and diagrams) online once you have determined exactly which one you have. For instance - http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7746050.aspx is an example of a transom that may or may not be the one you have. Use these diagrams to see how things go together, as well as to order replacement parts. You may need to go to http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-spare-parts.aspx and select Drives/Transmissions or Gasoline Engines, depending on what you're looking for, and finding the model that corresponds to what you have. From there you can Google part #'s and find anything you'll ever need to repair your unit.

Regarding your question, the thing you said is crumbling is your bellows. There are two of them, the upper one is bigger and houses your driveshaft (and must be water tight). The lower one has slits cut into it and is for your exhaust (its not watertight).
 
Top