suspension fork replacement

bubba-j

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Jul 28, 2014
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Hi all I'm going to change my suspension fork as it broke and also my vise rod my first question is can it be done without removing the whole drive second question what seals\gaskets will I need to replace when removing lower gear housing as far as the schematics I see only one o-ring and what gaskets will i need for the tilt rod thanks in advance
 

bubba-j

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Jul 28, 2014
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Sorry I forgot its aq280 drive I believe the tags are gone so not 100 percent sure
 

snobdr

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Oct 5, 2010
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50
Yea your going to want to take it off. Much easier to work with and you have to pull the pins to get the fork off anyway so....... Drive has to come completely apart. Top, inter, lower unit. Theres a few orings.
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
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There are three orings between the lower and intermediate. part #125017,941820,925256

You'll also want to replace the two seals around the needle bearings on the pivot tube as well as the upper pivot tube bushing.

The tilt assembly has a couple seals/orings and can be found in the link.

build yourself a stand to hold the outdrive, and remove the whole outdrive. I made one with wheels so I could roll it around. As you disassemble you'll find the seals and orings. Look up the parts as you go and make your list. Post any questions you may have. Do it right the first time!;)
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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Wondering what's a "suspension fork"?
You talking about the yoke on the steering helmet?
If so the only thing you need to remove is the top of the drive.
I used a small hyd. jack to lift the new yoke into place.
 

bubba-j

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Jul 28, 2014
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No its the part that the tilt rod pushes On to tilt Drive up and down. Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it. Can anyone tell me how the upper comes apart like the bellows u joint area is it just slip of the shaft once all is loose
 

Pesimist

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Jul 6, 2012
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65
No its the part that the tilt rod pushes On to tilt Drive up and down. Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it. Can anyone tell me how the upper comes apart like the bellows u joint area is it just slip of the shaft once all is loose
The drive doesn't have to be disassembled to do the work you described, remove the drive as an assembly. It may be easier to take the upper unit off but, I've removed the whole unit to do the work, it's just a little more delicate getting it back on.
 

captmello

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No its the part that the tilt rod pushes On to tilt Drive up and down. Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it. Can anyone tell me how the upper comes apart like the bellows u joint area is it just slip of the shaft once all is loose
Once the hose clamps are loose and the shift cable is freed up, the ujoint will slip off the PDS (primary drive shaft).
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
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The drive doesn't have to be disassembled to do the work you described, remove the drive as an assembly. It may be easier to take the upper unit off but, I've removed the whole unit to do the work, it's just a little more delicate getting it back on.


Correct, you don't need to disassemble but you need to split the drive into three parts. for reassembly, I would leave the upper off, and install it after the intermediate and lower have been installed as a unit. Its much easier, imo.
 

billbayliner

Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 30, 2006
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553
In order to change the suspension fork, you will need to remove the entire drive.
Start by removing the transmission only... and reinstall the transmission last when going back together.

This opens up the area for shift cable clamp access, and water neck fitting access.

Next.... use heat on the aluminum hinge pin bosses at the transom shield to expand the material some.
Drive the hinge pins outward with a soft brass or aluminum punch as to not expand the hinge pins.

Once off and in your work area, remove the lower unit.

Now you will gently and carefully press or drive the pivot tube downwards and out.
The tube is mildly friction fit within the Intermedaite housing, and if corroded at all you may want to heat this area.
The pivot tube also is rather soft, so be careful that you don't damage either end of it.
The upper area seals against a beaded gasket, and the lower area seals against an o-ring.

Look at the pivot tube needle bearing surface for any signs of rust damage.

Note the two white nylon spacers at top and bottom of the reverse latch bearing sleeve and the SS wear washer locations.

I would replace the pivot tube lower needle bearing/seals and the upper bushing while in there.
You'll want to also hand pack the needle cage because Volvo Penta did a lousy job with the grease porting here. The needle cage should have been ported and lined up with the port in the suspension fork.... but they screwed up.
 
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