Switch Plate Issues

[woodman7975]

I recently replaced the switch plate on my 4.3l Mercruiser. When I went to buy a new one, I guess the old roller ball style had been discontinued and the new plunger type is the only one you can buy now. I installed the new switch plate, reinstalled the control cables and adjusted per the directions on here and the Seloc manual. However when I go into forward from neutral it stalls the engine out most of the time. I looked at the switch and when I put it into forward the switch raises up, but doesn’t come back down to release the plunger, making the engine stall out. Reverse seems to work, or it could be just not working at all, but it won’t stall when going into reverse. Is there a different adjustment or do I need different cables for the new style switch plate? I’m not saying that i did the adjustment correctly but I have done this adjustment before without issues so I do not think it is that. I measured the travel on the cable that comes from the control and I am slightly over 3-1/8”, could that be the issue? The controls worked on the other switch plate though. Any ideas before I start replacing things?

I did also just take apart and regrease the control box, but I double checked that everything was connected correctly and in the right spot after I started having these issues.

this is a 1988 mercruiser 4.3 alpha 1, which the older style Commander controller.

 

[Bt Doctur]

However when I go into forward from neutral it stalls the engine out most of the time.

The shift interupter ONLY WORKS COMING OUT OF GEAR , IN THE WATER, WITH A LOAD ON THE PROP.
Any other time means a bad lower shift cable, corrosion in the shift components, a bad shiftshaft bushing, or drive damage

 

[Bondo]

I recently replaced the switch plate on my 4.3l Mercruiser.

Ayuh,...... Why, did you replace the shift plate,..??

 

[woodman7975]

The shift cable coming out of the transom moves fine by hand and locks the prop in both directions, so the cable is at least working. Can the cable still be bad if it moves freely by hand? How do I check if the cable is bad? The shift interrupter definitely moves up when it put it into forward whether it is running or not. Is there a chance I have something backwards? How do I check for corrosion in the shift shaft and shift shaft bushing?

I replaced it because the plunger on the old ball type switch broke when I was working on the engine. I wanted to just replace the switch but apparently you cannot but it anymore.

 

[Bt Doctur]

remove the lower shift cable from the plate , with thumb and forefinger greased can you move the black plastic sleeve freely?
Attach lower shift cable with the 6 inch measurement and shift into full forward, shift control box into full forward, attach to stud and rotate barrel to fit . Check reverse operation
switch must not move on land

 

[woodman7975]

I can move the black plastic sleeve freely. When taking the 6” measurement, is that with the lower cable pushed all the way back so that the drive is in forward gear? I did miss the 6” measurement when I set this up, I just kept the barrel on the lower cable where it was previously, set it in place and attached, I then put it in forward and adjusted the barrel on the upper cable accordingly. Do you think me not taking the 6” measurement is the issue?

 

[woodman7975]

Also, I assume that 6” measurement is from the center of the eye on the cable to the center of the brass barrel, correct?

 

[Bt Doctur]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYn7VJ2y7fI

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

I recently had good luck with this video by Achris as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-s_tgevX2aI

 

[woodman7975]

I followed the adjustment directions to a T and I’m still having issues. I actually had 6” on the lower shift cable by pure luck. Here is what happens when I adjust and try to put it in gear. When I pushed in the lower shift cable it moves freely and it will put the drive into forward, prop locks in the counter clockwise direction. I then attached and followed the directions for the upper cable. When I go into neutral the prop spins both ways, when I go into reverse it locks in the clockwise direction, when I go into forward again it doesn’t lock anymore. I tried with the engine on and the engine fires, it goes into reverse with a small clunk when it engages, it goes into neutral and it looks like the cutoff is working coming out of reverse. When I go into forward again it raises up and engages the switch and kills the engine. I just cannot get it to go into forward without the cutoff switch engaging. Does this mean I need a new cable?

I did clean out and regrease the control box, is there a chance I hooked something up wrong?

 

[Bt Doctur]

It DOES NOT work on land. period.
you have something corroded or sticking or the travel is a bit too much tripping the switch or your still adjusting it incorectly
Shift into full forward on the drive, shift into full forward on the control box attach plastic end to stud and adjust barrel to fit, test and report

 

[woodman7975]

I have it on a boat lift so I can run it on the water. It made it to the lift the first time. I probably would have went ahead and just changed out the shift cable to eliminate that if it were on land. When I ran the above test it was on the lift while I was testing it. I am pretty sure that I am adjusting correctly. I’ve done this before and I’ve never had this issue. What is driving me crazy is that when I move it by hand the shift cable works and it works in reverse but trips the switch and kills the engine in drive.

Is there a spec for the total travel on the lower shift cable?

 

[achris]

Remove the lower shift cable from the shift plate. Move to forward then back to neutral and mark where the shift lever is. Now move it into reverse, then back to neutral. See if it came back to the same place as it did when coming back to neutral from forward. Also, be sure it didn't even try to flick the (switch) actuating lever without the lower shift cable attached....

Chris.

 

[woodman7975]

I took the lower shift cable off and put it into forward and reverse and it comes back to neutral within a pens width of the previous spot. I did it several times and they all came back to the same area at neutral. I also took measurements of the travel of each. From neutral to reverse it travels 1-3/16” from neutral to forward it moves 1-11/16” for a total travel of 2-7/8”. Should the travel both ways be the same?

the actuating lever does not move at all with the shift cable removed.

 

[achris]

...the actuating lever does not move at all with the shift cable removed.

This would indicate you have a problem in the lower shift system. The cable, the slide in the cavity in the drive, the upper, intermediate or lower shift shafts (and their associated bushings and seals) or shift crank and dog clutch in the lower housing. Also, check the slide on the end of the lower shift cable rotates freely on the cable. If that grub-screw (in the end of the slide) is nipped up, it will show symptoms like a sticky shift cable... It would still move easily in your hand, but when locked into a single plane of movement on the shift plate it will behave differently.

Next I would remove the lower housing, reconnect the shift cable and try again... You are trying to isolate the area the problem is in. Once there, you can start fixing...

Chris.......

 

[woodman7975]

By actuating lever I was talking about the piece that moves up and down to engage the switch and kill the engine, is that what you are talking about also? If so that wouldn’t move unless the upper cable moved and the lower cable was attached, would it?

Its the end of the boating year anyways so I’ll just troll back to the trailer and replace all the cables, grease everything up and hope that fixes it. Is there anything else I should look at when I have the outdrive off?

Thanks for everyone’s help in this.

 

[achris]

By actuating lever I was talking about the piece that moves up and down to engage the switch and kill the engine, is that what you are talking about also?

Yes

If so that wouldn’t move unless the upper cable moved and the lower cable was attached, would it?

It shouldn't. The test with the cable disconnected was to prove that. When I'm fixing things, and it's a multi-process system, I 'divide and conquer...'

Its the end of the boating year anyways so I’ll just troll back to the trailer and replace all the cables, grease everything up and hope that fixes it. Is there anything else I should look at when I have the outdrive off?

Thanks for everyone’s help in this.