SX bellows replacemnt

Larson 96

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Jun 6, 2016
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I have a Larson 1996 5.0 FL SX-s out drive. I am thinking of doing both of the bellows. I suspect the exhaust bellow is bad. What are the options by brand if any on the alignment tool. Will other brands work or is it only a Volvo Penta part? Is there adhesive that needs to be applied to insure the bellows are sealed? Does anyone know of a good picture of a stand that has been used or made that works? If the maintenance on bellows is about every 5 years for normal use does that infer a new gimbal bearing? Thanks for any help.
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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If your exhaust bellows aren't cut or literally falling apart, don't bother changing.

No bellows adhesive is needed.

Use only OEM bellows.

Gimbal bearings will last a long time as long as water doesn't get in the bellows.

Mine is similar to the Stumpy's jack

IMG_0729.JPG
 
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skydiveD30571

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
1,042
Also, you should be pulling the drive at least every other year, if not every year. There's more to it than just 5-year bellow replacement (checking alignment, greasing shaft splines, ensuring water isn't getting into the bellows, etc.).
 

Shaper79

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Mar 25, 2016
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233
It would be nice if there was a good vid in the drive shaft below change for the SX. I pull my outdrive every year and do full service and grease gimble. I check my D-shaft bellow and it's now 6 years old. And looks and feels in perfect condition. Idk
 

bruceb58

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I change my u-joint bellows every 5 years and store the drive in the down position.
 

bruceb58

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Newer manuals show no adhesive is used. Removing the pivot housing is simple and makes the job easier.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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13,341
As far as using bellows adhesive to me that would depend on the condition of the sealing surface on the gimble housing. If it's in perfect shape maybe it's not needed but if not clean it up and see if there is any pitting in the aluminum if so Id use OMC gasket sealer.

Other points:
There is a groove in the gimble housing sealing surface that must match up with the ridge in the bellows sealing surface.
The clamp should be in the 1:00 position
If you are going to remove the pivot housing (recommended) get a few spare fiber washers first because sometimes they will be worn or cracked.
 

Dave-R

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Mar 18, 2008
Messages
441
I just finished installing new OEM bellows in an Volvo SX tonight. I never removed the bonnet, and yes that does make it easier like Bruce said.. I take and bungee the bonnet up as high as possible. I pulled the shift cable away a little also. I left the water supply alone, I felt like there was now enough room to install. The bellows I have were the newer hard plastic in the center ones. They are a little stiffer than the solid rubber ones with a spring inside. After cleaning, I used dish soap and a little water to lube up the boat side . I did the u-joint bellows first . The boat side popped right on, and the rubber ring on the billows seated very well. Before you remove the old one, take a look or mark how far the old bellows are back on the boat tube. The rib on the bellows will seat on the boat tube when you are back far enough.The hardest part for me, is always those dang ground clips that fit under the clamps. I put the clamp on before releasing the bonnet. Now you have to collapse the drive side of the bellows to pull it inside the drive. There is no easy way here, and I used a lot words you don't use in Christmas carols. My exhaust bellows were nothing more than a short snout with an open end. As before, the hard part is getting the clip under the exhaust clamp . Took about 2 hours, and the alignment was perfect, also the gimbal bearing felt like new so nothing needed there. You will need a long 1/4" extension with a 5/16" socket to reach the clamps. Good luck Dave-R
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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WOW...it's super easy when you take off the pivot housing. It's only 2 bolts! Not sure what the big deal is in taking it off. Why people insist on doing it the hard way is mind boggling.
 
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