Tap for 3/8" bolt, or use helicoil in existing 5/16" hole for t-stat cover in head?!?

Luke415

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
42
Tap for 3/8" bolt, or use helicoil in existing 5/16" hole for t-stat cover in head?!?

So I just found out one of the threads that holds the two bolts for the thermostat cover is stripped. Do I have enough meat around it to tap a hole for a new 3/8" bolt, or will I be too close to going through the water jacket? If not, then I can use a helicoil for the existing 5/16" bolt... Any knowledgeable mechanics know? I have a 1998 Merc 150XL OS
 

Luke415

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
42
So I just found out one of the threads that holds the two bolts for the thermostat cover is stripped. Do I have enough meat around it to tap a hole for a new 3/8" bolt, or will I be too close to going through the water jacket? If not, then I can use a helicoil for the existing 5/16" bolt... Any knowledgeable mechanics know? I have a 1998 Merc 150XL OS
2 stroke
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,834
I think it's apples and apples. My ref book stops at .250 (?) but a helical coil tap OD for that size is .316. Since a 5/16 is .0625 larger diameter one would suppose that the helicoil tap would be .0625 larger, more or less. Well that puts the helicoil diameter for the 5/16 a larger diameter than your .375 (⅜) tap.

If you don't get your question answered directly, I really doubt the castings are that close. These engines are probably "production jig" bored meaning there will be centering tolerances on the drilling jig meaning that extra meat needs to be in the bosses to keep from breaking out. No need to change the depth so you don't have to worry about that.

I think I would go with the 5/16 helicoil anyway and when you put it in, wipe the coil good with JB weld. That will help to seal any pores you may open in your machining process. The nice thing about the coil vs just drilling and tapping the ⅜, is the 5/16 thread is running in a stainless steel thread and the pressure of installation, is mainly on the coil, not on the block.....don't forget to knock the tang off the coil.

Or, just chase the threads real good and degrease it with something like spray brake cleaner and fill the hole with JB weld. Then drill and blind tap anew with your 5/16 tap.....I still like the coil better. We preferred them industry for the reason I gave you.

Also, I'd clean up the threads on the bolts on a wire wheel and use blue Locktite (thread sealer) on the bolts. It will lube the threads going in, help to seal the hole, and assist in removal (corrosion reducer-preventer) if and when you have to take it back out.

HTH,
Mark
 

Luke415

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
42
I think it's apples and apples. My ref book stops at .250 (?) but a helical coil tap OD for that size is .316. Since a 5/16 is .0625 larger diameter one would suppose that the helicoil tap would be .0625 larger, more or less. Well that puts the helicoil diameter for the 5/16 a larger diameter than your .375 (⅜) tap.

If you don't get your question answered directly, I really doubt the castings are that close. These engines are probably "production jig" bored meaning there will be centering tolerances on the drilling jig meaning that extra meat needs to be in the bosses to keep from breaking out. No need to change the depth so you don't have to worry about that.

I think I would go with the 5/16 helicoil anyway and when you put it in, wipe the coil good with JB weld. That will help to seal any pores you may open in your machining process. The nice thing about the coil vs just drilling and tapping the ⅜, is the 5/16 thread is running in a stainless steel thread and the pressure of installation, is mainly on the coil, not on the block.....don't forget to knock the tang off the coil.

Or, just chase the threads real good and degrease it with something like spray brake cleaner and fill the hole with JB weld. Then drill and blind tap anew with your 5/16 tap.....I still like the coil better. We preferred them industry for the reason I gave you.

Also, I'd clean up the threads on the bolts on a wire wheel and use blue Locktite (thread sealer) on the bolts. It will lube the threads going in, help to seal the hole, and assist in removal (corrosion reducer-preventer) if and when you have to take it back out.

HTH,
Mark
Nice, thanks for the thorough reply, Mark
 

bwhalerman

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
47
I just spent $1,000.00 having 2 bolts removed from the thermostat housing. Two of the 5 snapped off. I attempted to drill out the two and extract with an easy out but I couldn't get the bit on center as the bolt head was jagged. The mechanic said took 10 hours to extract the 2 bolts and helicoil the two holes. Congratulations if you got it out yourself.
 
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