Testing a Suzuki Rectifier/Regulator

Marion Moore

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
200
My 1997 DT115 EFI is having start battery charging problems. While waiting for my DVA to arrive to test peak voltage per the service manual I was testing the resistance values of the other components and don't have a clue how the manual came up with these specs. I have three 32800-94620 rectifier/regulators (I have lots of spare DT115/140 parts) which all fail with the same results. The manual calls for a Suzuki Pocket tester 09900-25002 which appears to be an analog VOM from some of the pictures I can pull from the Internet. I used a digital VOM for resistance and additional diode tests.

Attached are the readings the manual says you should receive with the meter set to R x 1k. I even tried my Simpson 260 analog meter but the numbers were not close. The most puzzling thing is measuring from the white wire to all other wires I do not receive an infinity measurement reading with both analog and digital meters.

I have also uploaded the rectifier circuit.

Last I have included the results I received when testing resistance with the digital VOM. Again, I have three rectifiers that produce these exact same readings. Either I have the craziest bad luck in the world, the test is flawed, or the test is using old technology that does not transfer.

I used the diode test observing the polarity from the circuit diagram and the rectifiers pass based on testing methods and videos that I found on the Internet. What is the deal here?
 

Attachments

  • photo222772.jpg
    photo222772.jpg
    130.9 KB · Views: 4
  • photo222773.jpg
    photo222773.jpg
    74.1 KB · Views: 3
  • photo222774.jpg
    photo222774.jpg
    68.7 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:

fngboy

Cadet
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
10
did you figure it out? my 1996 DT115 doesn't charge the battery. figured I would replace both charge coils. jh
 

Marion Moore

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
200
I found the pulser coil output to be out of spec when tested by the manual with a peak voltage tester. I had two spares from other parts engines so I changed it and it tested good. I also installed an analog volt meter. The engine does not charge at a constant output of 13+ VDC like a car. I can see the volts out cycle from time to time on the volt meter. The batteries have around 12.8 VDC when I check it with a digital meter after a fishing trip so charging is working again. I never figured out the crazy rectifier readings.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
I wouldn't put too much faith in those older resistance readings from the manual. Who knows what they were doing with their meters at the time. If you understand how diodes actually work, you can use most any meter to determine if they are good or not. Diodes actually work like one way valves. In one direction they allow voltage through and the other direction, they block the voltage. So basically the AC (Alternating Current/voltage) coming from the stator will be converted to pulsating DC voltage. And that is what charges the battery IF there is no regulator. A regulator basically keeps the voltage spikes from reaching the battery. It smoothes the voltage out to a basic level DC voltage range. JMHO!
 
Top