The 200$ boat rebuild, hopefully headed to splash town.

Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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Well I bought this flat bottom skiff about 2 years ago. It's called a Stoner Skiff. No the builder isn't a pothead, his last name is Stoner. Haha. Anyways they aren't fancy but are built locally since the 70's I believe. Popular work and fishing boats. This one was and is in bad shape when I bought it. Guy was asking 3000 and claiming it was water ready when I went to look at it. It's 16ft and a 1988 model. By the time is assessed that the deck had many soft spots, couple small holes in the gel coat bottom, saw the stringers were rotted through the inspection hatch by the transom, noticed that the transom had been redone in a questionable manner and the battery was dead so couldn't start the motor to see if it ran. I basically told him I couldn't even make him an offer because I didn't want to insult him if he really thought his boat in its current state was worth 3000. He asked me to explain, so I told him everything I see wrong with as previously stated and his response was to make him an offer. I told him if he wanted it gone I would give him 200, take it home and spend countless hours and a few grand in rebuilding it by my guesstimate. lol. He agreed!! And I reluctantly brought home this turd. Thing is these boats are fairly sought after where I live and have a reputation for being work horses. I like them myself. So I thought if I can get it back on the water for a few grand I could either keep it and have basically a brand new boat or sell it for a little profit. I have a basic understanding of what it takes and the process involved to rebuild it but I hope even though I'm new to this forum that y'all can help me along the way. I have spent the last two years researching the correct ways to approach this plan I have and to execute it correctly and to hopefully have a better than when it was originally built boat as the outcome. My son is 17 and been ready for me to get this done for over a year now. I guess he thinks this will be his. Haha
 

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Cas8101

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Bare with me as I will be working on this project and posting updates as I move forward with it in my very limited spare time. I have started on the tear out to see how bad it is.
 

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Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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From what I can tell someone did some shotty work attempting a rebuild awhile back. I don't believe those are original stringers and they were only tabbed in and left uncapped. They are mostly solid on bottom but rotted on top. And appears that instead of completely replacing the transom that they only replaced the top half?!? Anyways I'm gonna remove all wood and come back with new properly sealed and and encapsulated wood. If it holds up 2-3 decades that will be good enough for me.
 

Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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Anyone want to chime in on whether to go back Doug fir dimensional lumber for stringers or make stringers from plywood? They are currently 1.5" dimensional lumber, believe pine but unsure. Pros and cons? Obviously dimensional lumber would be cheaper but if plywood is stronger and far superior I could be persuaded. It's a small boat so i feel like dimensional would be plenty strong. But what do I know! Also a guess on how many yards of 1708 and Csm and resin to replace deck, stringers, and transom. Also curious, I plan on doing two layers of 1708 completely encapsulating the stringers. Do I need to start with CSM first on the stringers and then the 1708 or is two layers of 1708 without the first layer of CSM ok? Poly resin is what I will be using. I know epoxy is better but....
 

kcassells

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I guess I'll be the first to say... Rip that crap out and then make it your own.
 

sphelps

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Plywood would be good I would think . It’s been debated here before about the csm before the 1708 but I think the concences was that seeing as the 1708 has csm stitched to it you can do without the first layer of csm ..
Matter of preference I guess ... Gunna be a really nice fishing rig when your done !
Welcome aboard !!
 

Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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Motor has got to go, it runs well but looks terrible cosmetically and need new motor mounts, lower unit is also leaking. If it wasn't so old and beat up, I might would sand blast it and paint it to bring it back to life but at this point I'm basically set on replacing the motor and maybe selling this one for a couple hundred bucks or so. The thought of all the time and money spent on rebuilding it only to put a janky old motor back on it isn't sitting real well in my stomache
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Check the 2nd link below. It has some great info on what you'll be doing. This materials list will give you a good starting point

. iBoats MaterialsList.pdf
 

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Cas8101

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Ok so I'm sure this has been covered somewhere before but I can't find any definitive answers in my searching. From what I understand if using ACX plywood that one side is sanded fine and the other side is rough. When laminating two pieces together would you glue the rough sides together and have the fine side outwards that the glass will get Layed up on? Or is it necessary to sand the rough side smooth? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
 

sheboyganjohn

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Aug 2, 2005
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753
Using poly and CSM, or a CSM backed cloth it doesn't matter. CSM can cover up a lot of imperfections. But as a general rule I like to keep the nicer side out. I used ACx for my stringers and only did one 3/4" in most places so I was glassing both sides.
 

Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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Common sense tells me yea you big lazy dummy you need to sand the rough side to ensure uniform adhesion. But hey can't hurt to ask first right? Might save my lazy a$$ a step or two. Hah
 

Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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I should clarify, for building my transom and stringers I will be laminating two pieces of 3/4" plywood together. I wasn't planning on using CSM in between them when laminating them. I was planning on either using titebond 3 or coat the sides with resin first to seal and then thinnish peanut butter to bond. And was planning on putting the two rough sides to the inside which is where they will be laminated together. Common sense tells me to not be lazy and to sand the rough side to make sure I get uniform adhesion and bond but the lazy side of me wants to know if that step is really crucial or not. Lol
 

Cas8101

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Jun 24, 2018
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And I appreciate everyone's input and help on this deal. I'm sure y'all get tired responding to the same questions asked over and over. I hope y'all don't mind me leaning on y'alls experience. Thanks to everyone for their help
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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I would not sand them. I don’t think it really matters, but I would have a good side facing out so it looks nice. If you are using regular exterior ACX, it probably already has some voids between plies. Just use lent of Titebond III and clamp the bejesus out of it. (Or screw the boards together and remove the screws after the glue cures.)
 

Woodonglass

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I almost always use Titebond III for transoms but...In your case, If the plywood inner layers have large voids then I'd recommend you laminate them using thickened resin. Then use 1% hardener. this will give a good Filler material and with a plastic putty knife you'll be able to smooth it nicely. Do both of the inner sides and once it immeditel Apply another coat of the thick stuff and clamp the two pieces together This will yield a strong flat transom with no inner core voids.
 
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