The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

[SeaKaye12]

I've decided to search for a good 3-Cylinder Looper Evinrude/Johnson. I would prefer one of the 70 or 75 HP models but I can be talked out of that if appropriate.

My concerns (Since these engines were built from 1968 or so on up into the 90's I think):

(1) Did some of these use electric gearcases? If so; I would imagine that I should avoid those? What years/models are those?

(2) Ignition Systems. I would imagine that various systems were used. What to avoid and what to look for?

(3) I don't mind mixing oil and gas; so I am not particularly concerned with getting VRO.

(4) Generally speaking...is it safe to assume that newer is better? (From an engineering point of view)

Is that enough information for you guys to steer me in the right direction?

Thanks, Chuck

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

By the late 1970s they were pretty well bulletproof. They had the heavier rods, better ignition, and the standard mechanical shift gearcase. I've got hundreds of hours on my 1980 Stinger 75, rebuilt it when I bought it in 1994 (had overheated due to lack of previous owner's WP maintenance), and other than replacing the powerpack a few years back, and rebuilding the starter motor, I haven't had any real issues with it.

 

[Sixmark]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

The PO of my boat got it hot enough that the pressure relief valves were melted inside the T-stat housing.

It cooked the coils, power pack, most of the gaskets. So I went through and replaced what was needed.

I think it is a real testament to Evinrude/Johnson that their motors can hold up to that kind of abuse, my 84 now runs like a champ.........although there was some cussing and frustration involved at first.

 

[SeaKaye12]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

There were two versions of the Stinger? Not all stingers had the racing lower unit?

Was there a shorty Stinger?

Chuck

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

One thing to keep in mind is power trim/tilt. I believe it was standard on the 3-cylinder OMC from '78 on.

I'm looking for the same outboard myself, but I have a tilt bracket so I might opt for one without if I get a better price.

I'd like one for the favorable power-weight ratio. Being the highest output for a 3-cylinder I think the 70-75hp are perfect for my Starcraft.

Good luck to ya!

 

[the machinist]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

I purchased a used 1980 70hp Johnson in 2001. When I was looking at it, I asked the owner how it ran. It was still on his boat setting in the driveway. He just reached over & hit the starter button, it fired right off (not water). I told him to shut it off or he would ruin the water pump. He said "Thats OK, I did this this morning & yesterday also". I lowered my offer & when got it home replaced the frazzled water pump impeller. The motor withstood his ignorance.

I converted it to a jet drive unit & have used it on a jet sled since. The problems I encountered during my usage of it were a bad starter selinoid, powerpack & a trim-tilt motor.

The one thing I would look at, is the trim/tilt motor. Do not get the one with the 3 wire motor. It is obsolete. But the newer 2 wire motors are used on many other motors & new ones are reasonallby priced.

I think the motor is a great motor. When my starter selinoid was acting up I even found that it can be rope started.

One day I was asked by a friend to help him get his 70hp running. He had just made arrangements to sell it, but it would not start & he had money coming the next morning.
I checked everything, OK, then with the cowling off, asked him to hit the starter. No start, I asked him to do it again, but this time I manually choked it. It fired right off. He asked what I did. I said just choked it. His response was "How do you do that". He had owned this boat/motor for years & always had problems starting it. He had no idea if he just pushed the key in while he was rotating it that it also choked the motor. Moral of the story is they need to be choked when cold.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

I have a 1975 70hp w/hydro mechanical shift, no tilt & trim, I change lower oil once during season and then before I put her up for the winter.
Water pump, thermostat, plugs and a power pack & starter and carb kits and new OMC fuel lines is all I have ever had to do to it, Oh and I installed the dual stage boyesen reeds and new intake gaskets which lets her Idle down nice and low...and decarb with johnson engine tuner once a year and run a couple can of seafoam through it each summer...all the fun I can stand and does pertty good on fuel at about 4700 rpm

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

Yes, there were two versions of the Stinger model available - one was indeed a 15-inch shortie. It used a variation on the 50hp lower unit - smaller diameter bullet with a heavier driveshaft. Might have had a different gear ratio, too - I'd have to look it up.

 

[Sixmark]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

Yes, there were two versions of the Stinger model available - one was indeed a 15-inch shortie. It used a variation on the 50hp lower unit - smaller diameter bullet with a heavier driveshaft. Might have had a different gear ratio, too - I'd have to look it up.

Your memory serves you correctly, and yes they did have different gear ratios, many people preferred them for racing/performance applications.

 

[dforest]

Re: The 3-Cylinder Loopers: Which Years are best to look for?

dual stage boyesen reeds and new intake gaskets which lets her Idle down nice and low...

Could you tell me where I can get the boysen reeds? I have a 1975 70hp 3-cylinder looper and would like to be able to idle down nice and low. Thanks!