BoatDrinksQ5
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2012
- Messages
- 377
I read a lot here about blocks cracking.... air don't freeze....antifreeze/thermostat not open concerns...AF not getting to "all of the bits"....people with poor winterize plans.
I have been reading up on this since before i got my boat....and am still loooking at it from different angles.
If i run it for 10-15 to warmup the oil for changing ....change it. Then run it for a while longer on hose. At this point i should be at a steady 160 (stat open and controlling engine temp at least half open i would think). IF i then run AF (5gal) through with a bucket/hose into muffs until plenty of pink is coming out exhaust. Plenty should have gotten into block and all bits.
Then when i go and drain all of the AF, i should be able to check the color of AF at each drain plug for confirmation of effectiveness? Compare with a sample reserved and or throw it in the freezer...lol.
Most importantly the block drains since that is what would be the most risky because AF/water mix from the control stat.
Thanks guys! .
I have been reading up on this since before i got my boat....and am still loooking at it from different angles.
If i run it for 10-15 to warmup the oil for changing ....change it. Then run it for a while longer on hose. At this point i should be at a steady 160 (stat open and controlling engine temp at least half open i would think). IF i then run AF (5gal) through with a bucket/hose into muffs until plenty of pink is coming out exhaust. Plenty should have gotten into block and all bits.
Then when i go and drain all of the AF, i should be able to check the color of AF at each drain plug for confirmation of effectiveness? Compare with a sample reserved and or throw it in the freezer...lol.
Most importantly the block drains since that is what would be the most risky because AF/water mix from the control stat.
Thanks guys! .