Thought I'd give everyone an update on my trailer brake project.<br /><br />I decided to go with the tie-down ventilated disc brakes. As my existing coupler and brake lines were also shot, I also installed a tie-down disc ready coupler w/reverse lockout soleniod and new flexible brake line.<br /><br /> Installation was pretty easy. <br /> - remove the old coupler<br /> - install the new coupler and reverse lockout<br /> - wire the lock-out into a hiring harness compatible with your truck. I used a 7-pole RV to match the truck and pig-tailed a 4-pole in case I needed to tow with a different vehicle.<br /> - remove the old hubs and drums<br /> - install the actuator brackets on the 4-hole brake mounts<br /> - install the new hubs (just like a normal hub)<br /> - install the brake actuators*<br /> - attach brake lines from coupler to each actuator<br /> - fill brake resevoir<br /> - prime coupler "shock" system by pumping coupler 3-4 times full travel**<br /> - bleed***<br /><br />* I found that on one wheel, I needed to loosen the mounting plate after everything was installed and drift the position a bit to get free travel for the wheel. Better to check while everything is on jacks - rather than risk an overheat and blowout.<br /><br />** This was almost the most difficult part of installation as it takes a bit of force to do this by hand and I was reluctant to use the truck.<br /><br />*** This was fairly easy. The instructions suggest using an automotive pressure bleeder. I followed the old pump and squirt system. Each actuator has 2 bleed valves, but you only need to use the "highest" one to allow for differences in installation angles. The tie-down coupler has a handy bleeding system which allows one to actuate the master cylinder with a flat-blade screw driver.<br /><br />A few notes on the coupler<br />Besides the handy bleed system, the tie-down coupler has a couple other nice features. <br />- Grease fittings for the retaining posts which lube the joint between the coupler and outer sleeve<br />- A secondary retention ball retention pin which mounts behend and below the hitch ball, backing up the standard coupler lock on top. The retention pin also doubles as a manual brake lock-out when needing to reverse with a truck that doesn't have the proper connector for the electric soleniod. <br />- Coated cable for the emergency brake actuator<br /><br />Driving Report<br />I've put about 350 miles on the trailer now over the last 6 weeks including a 260 mile round trip pull to Apalachicola. <br />- Braking action seems well matched to the truck and although I can feel the "weight" of the trailer while stopping, I don't feel that the truck is being pushed. We had to make a fairly hard stop from 45mph coming back from Apalachicola after getting cut-off at a stop light. Felt like a quick stop with just the truck. <br />- I've tried to spray off the brakes with fresh water during my post boating clean-up. I've had the brakes "dunked" about 7 times now and no signs of rust on the discs. <br />- I haven't noticed much loss in braking after a dunk. It doesn't seem to take much braking to dry the discs (which stands to reason since car brakes opperate in wet conditions also) - besides, most ramps I've seen require a few stops prior to getting on a highway which gives ample opportunity to heat up the discs a bit to clear the water which isn't spun off.<br />- Heating of the hub, rim, and tires hasn't been a problem so far. Heat accumulation is highest around town with stop and go traffic. After a 5 mile pull from the local ramp, the hub cores are warm to the touch ~120 degrees at most comparing them to my exhaust manifolds which run about 145. A few times the rims and tires were also slightly warm - more like 100 or so. Hills probably would cause a similar effect. Heat seems to dissapate quickly at highway speeds. During my long trip, I stopped after 70 total miles on continuous driving with the last 20 being on the highway at 50mph. The hubs, rims, and wheels were cold with no noticeable heating. <br />- Steepest grades were bridges over the ICW, which can get up to 8 degrees or so. Posted speeds were usually 45mph. We found that if you idle-off the gas at the top at 45mph, the trailer brakes and engine resistance were able to hold the truck/boat package at 45mph the entire way down without needing help from the truck brakes. Fairly impressive I thought given the weight and grades involved.<br /><br />I'll try and post periodically as I get more time on the system.<br /><br />Parts and Cost<br />From easternmarine.com<br />Tie Down Model 66 Disc Actuator - 109.99<br />Tie Down 9.2" Vented Brake Assemby - 119.95ea (2)<br />Tie Down electric reversing disc brake soleniod - 47.95<br />Shipping on above - 39.95<br /> = $437.79<br /><br />From local marine store<br />21' flexible brake line kit with all fitings - $75.00<br />Wesbar plastic bearing buddies (they're clear which gives additional feedback on grease status, I think I might actually be able to remove and reuse them when needed, they don't require a sledge hammer to install, we'll see how they hold up) - $17.00<br /><br />From local auto store<br />7-pole male RV adapter - $8.00<br />Pipe sealer - $4.00<br /><br />4 hours of my labor at $0.00 per hour = 0.00 <br /><br />So about $542.00 for everything which was competitive with fulton electric drum brake (when considering I'd need a brake controller also), perhaps $100 more than surge drums or non-vented discs(I'd still have needed a new coupler), and maybe $100 less than Kodiak SS discs. Given their simplicity, I'm hoping long term maintainance costs run cheaper than drums.
