Tilt & Trim Installaion

john_henry

Recruit
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
Messages
1
Hi All hope all is well with everyone. I purchased a Tilt & Trim for a 85 Force on E-Bay for $174 and it looks pretty good and I am assured it works and is all there. Problem being I do not know how to install it. I have a Bayliner fish/ski 17' with an 85 Force outboard. I guess I am looking for an installation manual and some good advice. Thank you for your time and help. john henry
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Tilt & Trim Installaion

Well, ASSUMING you have all the parts, it's easy. If your existing engine has or had shock absorbers, the mounting bars for the shock(s) are used to mount the trim cylinder and the tilt cylinder. That is straightforward. If the bars are missing, the bottom mount uses a 5/8 inch bar and the top uses a 1/2 inch bar That passes through the engine pivot yoke and holds both the tilt cylinder and shock cylinder tops.

The motor and pump assembly mount to the starboard engine clamp with three 5/16 stainless bolts. you will see the three existing threaded holes in it. The difficult one is the top bolt which is hidden inside the motor mount on the 2 wire units. It is easier if you have a bent distributor wrench (1/2 inch).

The bent hydraulic lines should be attached and the whole unit can be installed with them attached--in fact, it is usually easier to tighten the hydraulic lines with the unit off the engine. If the lines are not attached, they are bent in such a manner that it is self evident which holes they screw into.

Now: wiring! If you bought a 2 wire unit, you will need a couple of relays and a switch. The switch is a M-O-M, Momentary on, off (center), Momentary on. You run power from the ignition switch to the center terminal of the switch. Top terminal of the switch is down and goes to signal the down relay. Bottom terminal is up and signals the up relay.

The relays usually mount inside the engine but it is not absolutely necessary. They both take power from the battery side of the starter relay. It is best to use a circuit breaker here but again, not absolutely necessary.

The wiring appears complex but if you have ANY electrical knowledge, it is simple. Look at another engine with tilt and study it. You will see how relatively simple it is.

If you do not get relays with the unit you bought, you can get a couple out of a junkyard from Buicks and Chevys. get the relays and the sockets. Try to leave at least 6 inches of wire connected. Since the autos have smaller wires in some of the necessary sockets get a couple of extra ones and rewire the sockets with the heavier wires. this only involves using a very small flat screwdriver to push out the socket prongs.

If your unit is a three wire unit, no relays are used and full power goes through the switch. It should come with a three wire cable and connectors.

The main thing to remember is that on both systems, BLACK is GROUND. The relays default to ground. BLUE is POSITIVE and is UP; GREEN is also POSITIVE and is DOWN. Depending upon which way you move the switch, either blue or green will be energised.
 
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