tilt tube 1989 Force 85HP

[Jeffreyi]

I need a tilt tube for a 1989 Force 85HP. Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: tilt tube 1989 Force 85HP

Do you mean the aluminum steering tube that passes through a 7/8 inch hole in each engine clamp? Threaded on one end with two nuts to position it?

Merc dealer should be able to get you one but I'll bet it's going to be pricey. Before you go to them, look for junkers in a marina --if one is close to you-- or keep an eye out on ebay.

 

[jim kinser]

Re: tilt tube 1989 Force 85HP

Go to mercruiserparts.com I have some, need length, outside diameter and if it has nuts on one or both ends.

 

[Jeffreyi]

Re: tilt tube 1989 Force 85HP

I measured the tilt tube to dimensions are as follows: 11 1/2 inches long and 2 7/8" diameter. It has two nuts on one side.
Since I need to replace the entire cable, how would you suggest that I remove all of this. How would I cut it? Since I'm doing all of this work on the boat itself if I cut the cable will I be able to tap out the tilt tube?
Thanks.

 

[jim kinser]

Re: tilt tube 1989 Force 85HP

I measured the tilt tube to dimensions are as follows: 11 1/2 inches long and 2 7/8" diameter. It has two nuts on one side.
Since I need to replace the entire cable, how would you suggest that I remove all of this. How would I cut it? Since I'm doing all of this work on the boat itself if I cut the cable will I be able to tap out the tilt tube?
Thanks.

I need the part number of the tube, never seen one with these dimensions. Go to mercruiserparts.com and look up the part number you need.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: tilt tube 1989 Force 85HP

I suspect that you meant to write that the tube is 7/8 inch diameter.

I also think that your real problem is that the steering no longer works and you need to remove the cable end from the tube.

The tube and steering cable are separate items. The cable screws onto the end of the tube. There should be two nuts on the starboard side of the tube and then there should be the threaded fitting on the cable.

Sometimes everything corrodes. You need two big wrenches--1 1/8 inches or so--been a long time, I forget the exact size. If the tube is turning when you try to unscrew the cable fitting, tighten the two big nuts against the clamp then try to unscrew the cable. The cable end fitting may be hex, or it may be other shape. you may need a pipe wrench to grab it. Since you are going to replace it anyway, if the cable end is corroded into the tube, after you unscrew the fitting, hammer it out with a punch or long 1/2 inch bar. Then clean and lubricate the inside of the tube before installing the new cable.

The tube is a slip fit in the engine clamps. Frequently, the nuts will be so badly corroded that you will not be able to turn them, or the tube will snap at the threaded end. you still need to drive out the cable end fitting because: While the tube is aluminum and relatively easy to cut, the cable is a combination of stainless sleeves and piano wire core. It is next to impossible to cut with anything other than a torch or diamond grit blade on a recip saw.

If the above is the case, you are in for a frustrating job. Have plenty of WD40 on hand, and give it plenty of time to penetrate--multiple squirts. Then you may get everything out intact. But even if you break and cut it, it is still going to be a nasty job.