To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

[Supertaz]

I must say that winterization was a big challenge as info available on the Web, from the manufacturer, Marina...etc was differing a bit depending to who you were talking too.

But nevertheless, I'm almost done but I need a last clarification.

After emptying the water (manifold, engine, water pump) I ran AF thru the 'Running Engine Flush Port' beside the engine.

My question, should I leave the AF there or not ?

If not, should I screw back the blue plugs or just leave it unscrewed (meaning air can circulate) ?

If possible, I'd like to have the theory behind the answer...

Thank you !!


p.s : I know it has been treated extensively but maybe not in that regards.

 

[Don S]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

It doesn't matter if you run the antifreeze in through the drive or your flush hose, it does the same thing. If you have a raw water cooled engine and try your method, you stand a very good chance of a cracked block in the spring. If you drain the engine first, then you would be ok.

After you run the anti freeze into it, rather you leave it or empty it doesn't matter at all.

 

[BRICH1260]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

I would leave it in there. I know there are two schools of thought on this, but by chance you did not get all of the water out, I think you would be better off by flooding the block with anti-freeze, letting it mix with the little water left inside. This might somewhat dilute a -50 degree formula, but it would be better than just plain water. Plus the air exposed metal inside the block might corrode faster.

 

[boat1010]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

If you pulled all the plugs and drained everything like you were supposed to there is really no reason to put antifreeze in the motor. But if it makes you feel better you can run it through and as long as the antifreeze is tested so you know the freeze point then you can leave it in. I guess my question is how did you inject the antifreeze back into the motor? Was it 50/50 or what?

 

[Supertaz]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

If you pulled all the plugs and drained everything like you were supposed to there is really no reason to put antifreeze in the motor. But if it makes you feel better you can run it through and as long as the antifreeze is tested so you know the freeze point then you can leave it in. I guess my question is how did you inject the antifreeze back into the motor? Was it 50/50 or what?

I injected the pink AF (-50oF) made for boat/RV using simple gravity thru the Engine Flush Port.

 

[Supertaz]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

It doesn't matter if you run the antifreeze in through the drive or your flush hose, it does the same thing. If you have a raw water cooled engine and try your method, you stand a very good chance of a cracked block in the spring. If you drain the engine first, then you would be ok.

After you run the anti freeze into it, rather you leave it or empty it doesn't matter at all.

Don,

I drained the engine first by opening all 4 blue plugs + removing the water hose tubes. Then after replugging everything, I ran the AF by gravity while engine running at normal operating temperature.

Is it more clear ? Sometimes I think French and write English...:redface:


So overall, internal corrosion is not a concern if I read you well ?

 

[Black Snow Slide]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

What I do when putting the motor to sleep:

1) Have everything you need. The flush container that holds 5-6 gallons of pink AF. Role of duc tape. Oil and filter. Fogging oil. (For this year new plugs wires distributor cap and rotor.) Fuel water separator. Can of water displacement spray. Fuel stabilizer. Salt away. Pencil zinc for heat exchanger. Raw water propeller

2) Fill fuel tank and add stabilizer before filling. No need to go crazy with the stable but a little extra never hurt.

3) Change into new fuel/water separator, Hook up hose to fresh water flush and start motor. Let it run up to normal temperature and send in the salt away. Turn off motor and pull drain plugs on manifolds and on side of the block.( Don't pull block plugs if you have a heat exchanger) Pull the plug from the heat exchanger.

4) Change the oil and filter with the motor still warm as all contaminates are sill suspended.

5) Replace all drain plugs from manifold, heat exchanger and bock. Tape off the water pick up on the out drive. Connect the flush kit with AF to the flush connector. Take any cover and flame arrestor off air intake. Restart motor and open AF flush. Right when the AF is 90% gone from tank, take 2 cans of fogging oil and blast the air intake. It should stall out the motor.

6) Go back to the out drive and there should be pink AF that has come out the exhaust . ( I keep a catch basen there) Now I pull the tape from the pick up o out drive and the remaining AF in flush tank will back flow out threw the pick up.

7) Let motor cool for the time it takes to drnk your fist two beers and remove spark plugs one at a time and fog each cylinger with a quick blast of fogging oil. Do one at a time so you dont mess up the wires. I leave AF in the block over winter. Take a couple of rags and clean the bildge spotless. Make it look like new. Everything needs to be perfectly clean. Remove batteries from trays and bring indoors. Spray motor and accessories with a light film of WD spay. Leave the raw water impeller on top of the motor so it can be replaced in the spring.

8) Your done. Your motor is put to bed and will be in great condition in the sring. (This is just for the motor. Outdrive will need some love as well)

 

[Stud man]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

This is great info Thanks
Now you talk about the outdrive......??
Please continue

 

[sea wolf]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

Don,

I drained the engine first by opening all 4 blue plugs + removing the water hose tubes. Then after replugging everything, I ran the AF by gravity while engine running at normal operating temperature.

Is it more clear ? Sometimes I think French and write English...:redface:


So overall, internal corrosion is not a concern if I read you well ?

What's the point of running AF thru the engine when you're diluting it with water from the muffs with the engine running? Or did I miss something?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

So overall, internal corrosion is not a concern if I read you well ?

Howdy,


It really isn't.

My last marine engine (a 1966 Mercruiser 150, a 230cu-in I-6 that dad bought new) was drained every year and NEVER left with AF in it and it lasted 39 years before I sold it.


And since you cannot completely fill the cooling system with the mix, there'd always be areas that are not "protected". If you're worried about corrosion, fill it with oil!

By the way, make sure that you are poking a wire in those holes to clear the drains of any rust flakes/debris etc.....


Cheers,


Rick

 

[Supertaz]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

What's the point of running AF thru the engine when you're diluting it with water from the muffs with the engine running? Or did I miss something?

I used the pink AF (sold at boat dealer) and I used the flush port in the motor compartment. Since it was my first timelife experience with a boat, I said to myself to play secure !

And also I thaught that running AF would push any left water. Yesterday, I've decided to drain the AF.....

So next year, I'll simply drain the engine and leave the blue plugs out...

 

[Supertaz]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

By the way, make sure that you are poking a wire in those holes to clear the drains of any rust flakes/debris etc.....


Cheers,


Rick

DONE ...Thanks !!

 

[Lou C]

Re: To finish with winterization process and Anti-Freeze

I flush, change the oil, run it again to check for leaks, fog it and drain everything manually. Then I back fill with -100, through the hoses till it pushes out the last of the water and replace the plugs. Then fill till full with AF...keeps out air, less corrosion. In salt water I think it makes a difference. In fresh water, probably not needed...