To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

[trox]

Hello all, I'm new to the boating scene but I am a mechanic with reasonable skills with most machines. Aircraft, cars and motorcycles, and jet skis so far. I just aquired a 1988, 18 ft Bayliner Capri 3.0 in pretty good condition except for the 3.0 engine has a huge crack in the block running nearly from front to back about an inch from the head. It has an OMC Cobra outdrive. The dilema I have is: should I put another 3.0 in her or go up to a 4.3 V6? How much would it take to convert up to a 4.3. There don't seem to be very many 3.0 marine motors available around here (Wichita, KS) for less than $1600 rebuilt. I'd like to find just a block but had no luck there yet. Is it worth holding out for a 3.0 or should I start looking at the 4.3? Other than the adapter plate to the out drive, how much hassle is it to change? Is there a kit?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

Howdy,

The 3.0L engine is a pretty good engine. If you want to sawp it out for a 4.3L engine that is do-able also but your drive will be the wrong ratio.

If you MUST have that boat it will be a good deal if it's free......and you find a donor boat with a complete engine and outdrive combination to swap over (preferably a Mercruiser 4.3L+ correct ratio drive)

Your best bet will probably be to find a boat set the way you want already.

Any boat with a junk engine and Cobra drive probably has a negative value.


Sorry about that.


Rick

 

[trox]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

I got the boat for $200 and some work around the farm. I don't have the cash to go out just buy one of these in good running order. The same boat in roughly the same year range is running anywhere from $2500 to $3500. So... if I can't find a 3.0 I should scrap the whole thing? It does need the upholstery redone but otherwise she's in good shape. I'm hoping the drive is OK since the cracked block is what (I assume) took the boat off the water. Is the Cobra that bad of a drive?

 

[DianneB]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

Oh man, I have a 3.0 in a 21' Sylvan and it is such a sweet little engine I have been thinking of pulling the engine and dropping it in my 24' cabin cruiser (and scrapping the Sylvan)!

In the 21' bow rider cruising at 5 Knots I am burning 1.2 Imperial gallons per hour - UNBELIEVABLE ECONOMY! The Mercruiser just purrs along so smooth and quiet at 1,200 RPM that is it delightful!

I am on the hunt for another 3.0L so I can leave the Sylvan alone LOL!

 

[tschmidty]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

OK, the last comment above is not real serious, economy in a boat is more dictated by speed than the engine.

I would not go through the trouble of updating to a 4.3 unless you can find a full engine and drive for cheap. Really the same with the engine. You'd really need to get it cheap to make it worth the cost. An OMC drive is not real favored as they are not built or supported by parts anymore. Your best bet is to try find a 3.0 (either full or short/long block) at a boat junk yard, search the web, craigslist, ebay.

 

[antsmands]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

Hello all, I'm new to the boating scene but I am a mechanic with reasonable skills with most machines. Aircraft, cars and motorcycles, and jet skis so far. I just aquired a 1988, 18 ft Bayliner Capri 3.0 in pretty good condition except for the 3.0 engine has a huge crack in the block running nearly from front to back about an inch from the head. It has an OMC Cobra outdrive. The dilema I have is: should I put another 3.0 in her or go up to a 4.3 V6? How much would it take to convert up to a 4.3. There don't seem to be very many 3.0 marine motors available around here (Wichita, KS) for less than $1600 rebuilt. I'd like to find just a block but had no luck there yet. Is it worth holding out for a 3.0 or should I start looking at the 4.3? Other than the adapter plate to the out drive, how much hassle is it to change? Is there a kit?

These block cracks are very common sad to say but are very fixable if the internal water jackets are not damages. Is there water in the oil. If not try fixing it like I did. Plenty of info on the repair on this forum. The 3.0 is a good motor with good power for the size boat we have. Don't swap unless it cannot be repaired and maybe look for another 3.0.

 

[trox]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

Thanks for all the feedback. I'm sure I won't be looking change after the comments recieved. I would love to save this block if possible. The engine is removed and sitting in the barn where I got the boat from. I just need to pick it up. There is JB Weld on the crack now and it extends beyond the spooge so I don't know if it grew or was never completely covered. When I get it home and take the head off, I'll get back on here with a new thread and maybe add pictures if I can. Is there any way of checking the out drive to see if it's still good? Thanks to all who commented.

 

[tschmidty]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

There is good info on repairing a crack, but the basics are to drill relief holes in either end of the crack to keep it from spreading and then do the jb weld. You may be able to get away with it if there is only an external crack since the cooling system is not closed/pressurized. No experience with the OMC but others may chime in.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

The 3.0L engine is probably up there with the inline 6 cyl GM engines as some of the best engines ever put in a small boat.

The problem with them is they were never used in a car or truck. They were only used in boats, forklifts, and other industrial applications. So as a result, they're a little harder to find.

Block cracks are repairable (the right way....NOT with epoxy) and the rebuild facilities usually charge extra if they get a core or one to rebuild that is cracked. http://www.usengine.us/mercruiser.html (scroll down to the 3.0)

Yeah, you can probably glue the block but the 3.0 engine usually cracks in a structural area (up under the manifold). This can cause head gasket failures later. (Do you want to go boating or do you want to have replace head gasket every summer?)

Some people HAVE successfully "glued" a block and had it work for years.... I wouldn't do it.......but people do it all the time........as long as you're not operating near a FALLS, or out to SEA......you're probably ok......Keep your cell phone dry!!...



If you want to put a 4.3 in it, yes, you will need a different drive, bell housing Y-pipe,etc. The easiest way to do it will be to find a donor boat.

But you can also scrounge parts from Craigslist, ebay, marine wrecking yards etc too. If you're good at that, go for it.

If you're lucky, and there's nothing wrong with that drive you can recover some money..... and get a drive to match the 4.3, it should work ok....

The Bayliner Capri is a pretty nice little boat. I recently replaced a 3.0L engine in a newer Capri 2050 (that also had a cracked block) and it ran REALLY nice with the new engine.

With a 4.3L V-6 it will run even better!

You should be able to sell the Cobra drive you have. (I sold my previous King Cobra drive for $1400)


Since you're scrounging, look on ebay for Mercruiser parts and drives. It's not that hard to find used Mercruiser stuff, gimbals/drives/flywheel housings etc too.....except for the stuff bolted to them.....the engines are the same (GM 4/6/v-6 etc)


Good luck!

Rick

 

[Kainon]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

The Chevy 153 cu in (2.51 L) I4 which is the same as the Mercruiser 120hp 2.5L which the 3.0L 140/135hp is based on was used in '62-'67 Chevy II's ( though still hard to find. )

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/hotnews/0808chp_1993_chevy_camaro_z28/photo_05.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Nova

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

The Chevy 153 cu in (2.51 L) I4 which is the same as the Mercruiser 120hp 2.5L which the 3.0L 140/135hp is based on was used in '62-'67 Chevy II's ( though still hard to find. )

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/hotnews/0808chp_1993_chevy_camaro_z28/photo_05.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Nova

Yeah.. I think that would be a bit of a downgrade in otherwise anemic performance even with the 3.0L engine. That newer Bayliner 2050 I did the engine replacement on only did about 35-40 mph or so with the new engine in it with 2 of us and an "ok" holeshot......

It ran great but I would have put a 4.3 or 5.7 in it!!

I'll bet it would be a real DOG with a 2.5L "4-banger" in it.

 

[TyeeMan]

Re: To go 3.0 or not? that's the question.

For what it's worth, my 1989 Lund Tyee with a 3.0 liter was just totalled out. Took a shot to the transom by a semi truck, , it's not as bad as you think. Any way that 3.0L ran like a million bucks, I just did point, condensor, cap, rotor, wires, carb rebuild. Didn't use any oil in a season and I ran synthetic for the 4 years I had it. Everything on the engine is good. There might be a couple of salvageable parts on the upper drive, tilt trim motor and gages.
Any way, it will be on crashedtoys.com minnesota which is a auction type site. Throw out a cheap bid and see what you get. You would get the whole boat/motor/trailer but you could scrap the rest or rebuild the boat.
Any way, just thought I'd throw that out for you folks that are looking for a good 3.0L. Start looking on crashed toys in a day or two, they just picked up from my house this morning.