Took the boat out and one of the twin Force 120s just quit the other was running on 3 cyls for 12 miles

[gica]

So I took the boat out to the Channel Islands yesterday, it was flat out there even though the apps showed 3ft waves and as usual were wrong thank God. So, it rode perfect all the way there
going 25mph. I got to the first fishing spot, and I stopped. After a while I wanted to start it and it didn't anymore. Checked for spark and nothing. Funny thing is that the other engine started to run badly so I decided to go behind the Anacapa Island and check things out. The one with no spark also showed half a volt between brown/blue 1 and Brown/yellow 2 also between 3 and 4 using DVA. Also resistance is OL. Both stators on both engines are CDIs and fairly new. I checked the Black/yellow stop wire and no spark with it off either. I unplugged the 2 yellow AC rectifier wires, still no spark. At this point the trigger measures 48 ohms between any orange/yellow or green red and Ol to ground. Did not check the voltages from the trigger it should be 2v without DVA and 0.5 with DVA connected.
How could this happen to a new stator? Is this a good assumption that it's the stator? Is there anything else that could cause this? The trigger will not cause all 4 to go.
Let me know guys and thanks.

 

[gica]

On the other engine there were 2 broke wires I fixed them and one of the modules stopped sparking on number 1 cylinder, so I swapped it for one of the other engine's and it now sparks. Is there a way to check resistance on the brown/blue and brown /yellow that go to the stator wires? This was the second module on the right and it fees power to the 1 and 2 coils.
The brown/yellow wire connector is broken but that goes to number 3 stator wire. Is that the one that feeds number 1 coil? The brown/blue goes to 4 stator wire as per diagram. Does 3 feed 1 and 4 feed 2? That is weird.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Testing a pack: http://www.outboardignition.com/

Troubleshooting the CD Module 1. DVA readings should always be taken with everything hooked up. 2. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the terminals. 3. Check the flywheel for broken or loose magnets. 4. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT. 5. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. Burned areas on the battery charge windings indicate a possible problem with the rectifier. IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER: 1.Disconnect the kill wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. 2.Using the Fluke meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets is from 680-800 ohms (CDI will read 300-400 ohms). 3.Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier

 

[gica]

Testing a pack: http://www.outboardignition.com/

Troubleshooting the CD Module 1. DVA readings should always be taken with everything hooked up. 2. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the terminals. 3. Check the flywheel for broken or loose magnets. 4. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT. 5. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. Burned areas on the battery charge windings indicate a possible problem with the rectifier. IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER: 1.Disconnect the kill wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. 2.Using the Fluke meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets is from 680-800 ohms (CDI will read 300-400 ohms). 3.Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier

As always thank Jerry
Yeah, as I mention on my first post I did the second test for the no spark on any plug. The DVA between wire sets is 0.5V and the resistance is open reading. I did remove the 2 black and yellow wires and tested for spark and there is none. I also disconnected the rectifier 2 yellows, and then the red and the grey, same result.
Also, which CD module wire on the second box feeds voltage to the number 1 coil, any idea? As I mentioned there was a broken brown/yellow connector.
I already swapped with one from the other engine. I will test it with the connector after I fix the no spark issue.

 

[gica]

Hey Jerry so a bad rectifier can cause no spark in all 4s? What could have caused mine to go no spark with a new stator running really great. I get 0.5 between sets and open resistance. It's a dilemma as of now. I got another stator CDI. Trying to understand the reason. Don't want to have the second burn aswell.

 

[gica]

I just measure Brown/Blue and Brown/Yellow to ground and both were 3.5V so almost double from the less than 2V expected in the test.

 

[gica]

Ok I opened up the flywheel and it seems on the back side I don't know what it's called but there are metal strips stacked together and some were pulled off and they broke the trigger housing, and I guess the stator is also not good anymore even though there is no physical damage to it.
Can the stator and triggers be tested off the motor?
I already got another used CDI stator it measures 300 ohms between lines.
It should be good but the trigger is done. That thing is so expensive I so it for 400 to 500 new.
I do have 2 older triggers that all measure 53 to 55 ohms between each pair and there are 8 of them.
Below is the Dropbox with the damaged pictures.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com