Re: Valves
Re: Valves
Valve layout is
E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E
You first have to make sure you are on #1 TDC on the
compression stroke, and if you had the timing gear marks lined up, you are NOT on the compression stroke. Here is from the manual, be sure to follow it.
Note: you will also need to be at #1TDC on the compression stroke when installing the distributor.
Crank engine with starter or turn over in normal direction of rotation until mark on
torsional damper lines up with center ?0? mark on timing tab, and engine is in No. 1 firing
position. This may be determined by placing fingers on No. 1 valve as mark. If valves
move as mark comes up to timing tab, engine is in No.4 firing position and should be
turned over one more time to reach No. 1 position.
The next biggest mistake made is getting the free travel out of the rocker arms.
The manual states
Loosen adjusting nut until lash is felt at push rod, then tighten adjusting nut until all lash
is removed. This can be determined by moving push rod up and down while turning
adjusting nut until all play is removed
.
This is where most people overdo it and get valves too tight.
When you are moving the push rod up and down and tightening the rocker nut to zero lash, when the push rod stops moving, stop tightening. Do this one time and one time only, do not recheck it, the push rod will move again, but don't mess with it. You are done finding zero lash.
Now turn the adjusting nut the additional amount called for in the manual. Here again, use the value in the manual not what someone else says they use. This process does nothing more than set the hydraulic lifter at mid point in it's working travel.
I merged both of your posts together. Please do not double post a question in two different threads.
