Transitioning a boat from freshwater to saltwater

[badrano]

I've been on this forum a few days and I keep sending out the questions I'm new to I/O boats.

Is there anything special to pay attention to when buying a freshwater boat and moving over to saltwater? I know at least the anodes need to be changed out. My goal is to trailer the boat to various ramps and then flush once I get back home.

I might be crazy, but I like the idea of starting with a freshwater boat because there shouldn't be as much of a corosion concern and since I will religiously flush the motor after every outing, I get more of a warm/fuzzy feeling.

If interested, here is the link to the boat I'm eyeing. The current owner is the 2nd owner and supposedly he learned a hard lesson about not winterizing...hence a 2005 boat with a 2009 motor. I will be trying to extract as much info from the dealer and owner since the boat is about 4 hrs away from me.

Thanks.

 

[robert graham]

If possible use launching ramps up freshwater rivers that lead down to saltwater area....thus flushing with fresh water returning to ramp. A can of white lithium grease can be sprayed on trailer springs, shackles, etc.,...as well to spray your motor's tilt/trim pump, motor, Rams, etc....stays on the surfaces very well and provides protection from saltwater...

 

[tpenfield]

IF you are day launching and then flushing out afterward, the only thing you would want to do is have fresh anodes.

Don't assume that just because the boat was in fresh water, that there is no corrosion issues. Many folks don't change their anodes in fresh water and end up having more corrosion than if they had been maintaining things in salt water.

 

[badrano]

IF you are day launching and then flushing out afterward, the only thing you would want to do is have fresh anodes.

Don't assume that just because the boat was in fresh water, that there is no corrosion issues. Many folks don't change their anodes in fresh water and end up having more corrosion than if they had been maintaining things in salt water.

That's a good point. I will add to my check list to check the state of the anodes. I understand that freshwater doesn't mean no corrosion issues, hence why I said "shouldn't" In the end, any boat I put an offer on will be examined by a mechanic. With all my posts and discussions with other folks, I'm building my own checklist to help me decide to take the next step and pay for a mechnic to look over the boat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

assuming all maintenance is done religiously....

fresh water, manifolds and elbows should last 30-40 years. in salt water, 5-7 years
anodes in fresh water are now different than anodes in salt water

salt water boats have a slightly different maintenance schedule on a few things, however thats just service life maintenance items

if your trailer is steel tube construction, plan on buying a new trailer (galvanized or aluminum) in 2 years if you dont flush it or 5 years if you do.

 

[Chris1956]

If you are launching for one day in salt water, at a time, little is needed. Flush the engine until warm and thermostat is open, after each day and hose the boat off. The rest of the stuff mentioned (anodes, Lithium grease), are not important. For day launching you do not even need anodes....

 

[badrano]

Base on the few pictures on boattrader that show the trailer, it is galvanized and looks in really good condition. Even though the owner is the second owner, based on what the marina said, the boat was kept in the boat house on a boat rack so the trailer may not have seen a lot of launches.

From what I've read, the anodes have to be zinc for saltwater.

Since the owner goofed on winterizing the original engine, I want to track down their mechanic (not the marina that it is at now) to verify services performed. Want to make sure there are no other hidden goofs.

 

[dingbat]

My first saltwater boat was a 6 year old freshwater boat with a Merc I/O.

Keep it four seasons, 1 set of risers, 2 gimbal bearings and more burnt hands (draining block after cold weather use) than I care to remember before selling it and buying an outboard.

Never again.

 

[JoLin]

"From what I've read, the anodes have to be zinc for saltwater."

Zinc or aluminum for salt/brackish water. Never mix them- use one type for everything.

I use aluminum. My boat is slipped in salt all summer, and has been since the PO bought it new in 1992. My outdrives are the originals (26 years old) and show very minimal corrosion. A trailered boat flushed regularly will last as long in salt use as it will in fresh. Your biggest issue over time will be the trailer. Pretty hard to completely flush all the nooks and crannies every time you use it.

My .02