Transom Assembly Removal

[Tom Moser]

I am new to boating, but, I have successfully removed my outdrive and with replace the bellows, gimbal bearing, gear shift cable, and trim limit switches (I had some leaking). QUESTION: Is it always wise to take off the Transom Assembly so I can put in new seals (i.e. seals to the transom of the boat)? It looks like a bit of work. Also, my boat is pretty old (1991 Crownline). So, I don't know if anyone has ever replaced the Transom Seals.

 

[nola mike]

Only reasons I can think of to remove transom assembly is
a) if it's leaking (and at that point you're usually looking at a transom replacement)
b) changing drive systems (alpha 1-->gen 2, OMC-->merc, etc)
c) It's physically broken.

 

[nola mike]

Also, if you're that far in you might want to replace the cooling hose. Mine was in pretty rough shape. Although that was the worst part of the job...

 

[Tom Moser]

Yes. I am replacing the hose.
To remove the gimbal housing I am guessing I would need to pull the engine. So, since the Transom Assembly seal is not leaking (at least I think if isn't since the bellows had a rip in it), I will forego the transom seal replacement and hope for the best.
Thanks.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I agree. If you are not obviously leaking or having a transom problem, leave it be. You have to take everything apart, including pulling the motor to pull the transom. Not that big a deal, I have had several motors out and sitting on the ground in under an hour, but it also takes some $$ in gaskets to reassemble. I wouldn't think if the wood is any good in your transom that the gaskets are bad, anyway.

 

[devildogae]

caulk some 3M 4200 around the edge of the transom assembly and see if that fixes your leak. I'm guessing it's leaking from the surrounding water into your bilge. If water is getting in through the anode bolts, but a small bead of 4200 around them also. Do not use 5200 cause that's near permanent. Doing this and also repairing your bellows and water line, you should have fixed the water intrusion issue.

 

[JASinIL2006]

caulk some 3M 4200 around the edge of the transom assembly and see if that fixes your leak. I'm guessing it's leaking from the surrounding water into your bilge. If water is getting in through the anode bolts, but a small bead of 4200 around them also. Do not use 5200 cause that's near permanent. Doing this and also repairing your bellows and water line, you should have fixed the water intrusion issue.

If putting 3M 4200 around the transom assembly fixes a water intrusion problem, then he most likely has a much bigger problem (i.e., a rotten transom) and he won't have fixed the issue, he'll just temporarily have hidden it.

Hopefully, the bellows job took care of the leak and all is well. Never know on a 27 year old boat, though...

 

[nola mike]

Also, if I ever saw 4200 around a transom, on a boat for sale, I'd RUN...

 

[devildogae]

Also, if I ever saw 4200 around a transom, on a boat for sale, I'd RUN...

I put 4200 around my transom assembly after I rebuilt it with new everything. It's another layer of security.

 

[devildogae]

If putting 3M 4200 around the transom assembly fixes a water intrusion problem, then he most likely has a much bigger problem (i.e., a rotten transom) and he won't have fixed the issue, he'll just temporarily have hidden it.

Hopefully, the bellows job took care of the leak and all is well. Never know on a 27 year old boat, though...

Your correct. If the bellows doesn't fix the leak, need to look further into the issue

 

[Rick Stephens]

Next time I do a transom I am going to put the 4200 on the seal itself, not install it dry. I will hopefully never have to 4200 around the outside. I wouldn't buy a boat had the transom sealed like that.

 

[harringtondav]

...don't forget about the shift cable bellows. Mine split and filled the bilge. I changed all three just because I was that deep into it. The drive shaft bellows was still good.