Transom PL glue delamination

[LilbilMT]

Q!
do I have to cut out my transom out and start over?
Can I just squirt/inject some glue around the keyhole and be OK ?

Details:
I just cut the keyhole and the PL glue still had some decent beads . Didn’t spread out very well . The transfer did not adhear to the hull around the keyhole. At least 4-6” around it.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cDy2OP1Zw_wwC5VJqPtZkH_fdUF4mxnD

I have a 1988 sea swirl sierra 2 3.4L gm omc outboard stern drive.

I had to replace the transom, 1 engine mount and some of the deck due to rot.

I was in the process of restoring the transom .
I made it to tabing in the transom with 1708 , moving on to the deck.



Shout out to just awesome site and everything I’ve learned here !

 

[WolverineLiving]

I'll be honest here and admit that I cringe every time I see someone mentioning using PL, a product that tells you it's not for marine use and doesn't like water to bed stringers and glue transoms in. No way I'd personally ever use anything but resin thickened with cabisol to glue transoms and create fillets. That's just me, your mileage may vary

 

[LilbilMT]

After my own little bit of research

looks like I’m going to try to find a glue that I can squeeze into the gap. I have some 5200 . Have not made up my mind .

i’m going to pry the hull from the transom just a little bit ,
Use a clauk gun with straw to fill the gaps from the PL beads.

 

[Woodonglass]

The transom is one of the KEY Structural elements of a boat. Trying to fix a Poorly laminated transom is an exercise in futility. How was the transom clamped to the outer skin" Many members have used PL for their transoms with great success but...The clamping procedure IS CRITICAL for this success. IMHO you need to start over to assure you have a good transom Layup and avoid a structural defect.

 

[GA_Boater]

Transom thickness is critical for the coupler and driveshaft to mate properly or the coupler splines will wear prematurely causing the coupler to fail. Thickness is 2" - 2.25" and it must be less than 1/8" deviation from flat. Cobra and Mercruiser are the same.

You can't fill the gap with anything, you need to do it properly and when the wood is put back in, clamp it well to squeeze the wood and outer hull so there are no gaps.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Start over and do it right

 

[fishrdan]

If the keyhole area isn't bonded, how well is the rest of the transom bonded... As WOG said, this is a key structural item of the boat.

I'd pull the transom and do it again. I have taken a step back in projects, when things go sideways, better to fix the problem now than dealing with it later. Once the gimble housing is installed, there is going to be a LOT of clamping force, not something I'd want supported by beads of PL or a thick layer of 5200 (that could compress and loosen the gimble housing torque).

Use a V notch trowel to spread out the PL, to get a nice even coat, then clamp it. Work quickly to keep the PL from skinning over.

 

[mickyryan]

safest way is to take it out and redo , if you can use pour able that's nice as well

 

[kcassells]

Boy like said before I do not like pl. The gas off, the time for the cure etc. PB is the way to go for sure for the transom. IMHO.
That blows but just do it over. You'll never have to worry about it again.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I'd pull it out, too, and do it over. If you pull it soon enough, the PL may not reach full strength and it might come out easier than if you wait.

I'm with the rest of these guys; lose the PL and use thickened resin to glue in the transom.

 

[skunkedskippy]

I’m about to start my transom rebuild. You just scared me out of using PL. Thanks for the post.

 

[demarko210]

Just start over while you have the guts exposed. I just went through the exact thing. I did not use PL i used thicken resin but did not get a good clamp. Also did not use enough resin. I was thinking the same as you pouring some liquid glue down there to try and get it to stick. I even thought of cutting the hull from the outside. Just start the demo again.