Transom Repair

Themanofsteel

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
312
I believe my transom is pretty rotted. I want to replace with a Seacast transom. Anyways, I need guidance on removing the cap of the boat. How do I go about doing that. I see a bunch of dots that look like rivets. See photo. What are they. How do I remove the cap?
 

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Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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I've never done it myself, but you might want to get a further out shot. I'm not sure what the picture is of.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Can't see for sure, but those look like the rivets, or screws I really can't tell, that hold the rub rail and top cap in place. My suggestion is to take a lot of pictures with a wider angle and post them on here for us to see what you are working with. And then we can offer the best way to go about rebuilding your boat. I do see lots of grinding with that suspect surface the way it looks. And you might want to look at the usual way to replace the transom with using exterior grade 3/4" plywoods like everybody else does. It is the cheapest and really an extremely solid option for a new transom. And once installed the correct way will last probably longer then the boat. JMHO
 

DeepBlue2010

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Aug 19, 2010
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1,305
I believe my transom is pretty rotted. I want to replace with a Seacast transom. Anyways, I need guidance on removing the cap of the boat. How do I go about doing that. I see a bunch of dots that look like rivets. See photo. What are they. How do I remove the cap?


We need much more info about the boat make, model, year and power train (Inboard, Outboard or I/O)
What symptoms led you to believe that the transom is compromised? What did you do to verify your suspicions about the transom; did you take core samples or tried to flex it by standing on the engine (or outdrive) and see if the transom is flexing?

Not every transom job requires removing the cap, why do you think you need to? The rub rail is attached to the hull body with rivets and bolts. Not all rivets are connecting the cap and the hull. In other words, some rivets are attaching the rub rail to the cap only and it has nothing to do with attaching the cap to the hull. So, if you drill out all rivets, you could be creating more work for yourself than you have to. If you must remove the cap, find the rivets that passes through the two halves of the boat and remove these along with the bolts, of course.

SeaCast is a great product and if you want to use it, by all means go ahead. It will require some prepping though and we can talk about what is required when you tell us what king of boat you got. Post more pictures of the boat overall and the transom area specifically from both inside and outside.

Did you perform any inspection of the stringers, deck and bulkheads?
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,090
The rub rail or black rubber on the rub rail needs to come off.
Then drill off the river heads.
​Push the rivets through after cutting the heads.
The top cap should come off.

Things like controls and cables and wiring might need to be disconnected.

Depending on the boat?? you might have trouble with the transom and separating there?


Lots of pics????
 

Themanofsteel

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
312
No Title

Sorry. I posted this quick and forgot a whole lot of info. Its a Byliner Capri 16' outboard. The original picture is the inside where the cap and the boat meet. I uploaded another picture of the boat. Not the best but the only one I had.

I want to do a Seacast Transom. http://www.transomrepair.net/index.p...4fbb0b40ef81a7
Does anyone have an con on using Seacast. I just like that ill not have to worry about rotting. I've seen some youtube videos on it and it seems pretty good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLF0V2Wfs3I
 

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DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
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Aug 19, 2010
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1,305
The only real con is $$. The air pockets and other symptoms people complain about is more of a sloppy work and bad craftsmanship and sometimes a complete lack of ability to read/follow simple instructions.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
The prep time and As DB mentioned costs, sway a lot of people. My deal is...a wood transom when fabricated, installed and maintained properly will last 40-50 years. Cost is under $100 bucks.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
How are the stringers ? If the transom is bad good chance the stringers are also ..
DB is correct on the seacast ... If you are gunna spend the money make sure you do the prep and installation correctly ... There are others here on the forum that have used it . archbuilder has used it on 2 different boats as I have ... jrttoday also just poured his transom..
 

79_banshee

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 2, 2016
Messages
176
If you don't plan on keeping the boat forever I would do wood transom. It will last as long as you own the boat. If you put all the money into the sea cast and sell the boat a couple years later it might not make it worth any more money. Could save your self some $ and still make some if you where to sell it 5-10 years later. JMHO
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,090
The Bayliner outboards.
​The transom was sealed where the transom meets the top cap.
​It's all glassed in and can be fun breaking the old glass apart.
​Be careful when working on it so you don't damage the area where it comes together.

I replaced a gas tank on a 21 BL with twin outboards.
HUGE PITA.
 
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