Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

[sethro]

Good Evening,

I purchased a 1986 Procraft 1750v Fish and Ski w/ a Mercury Blackmax 150 a few weeks ago. Found the steering was stiff while turning to the right while loose when turning to the left. Steering appears to be OK when the boat is idle, low speed, and out of the water.

Did some research and saw a thread regarding how the transom can affect steering. After further inspection, there is a horizontal crack that appears to run the entire length of the transom. When should one invest a couple of grand to have a transom replaced? Pictures are attached and many thanks for any input.

I can gather more information if needed - thanks again. If I'm linking two separate issues (due to ignorance), please slap me as this grasshopper deserves it.

 

[matt167]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

drill some core samples of the transom from the inside out. Put a drill stop on it and set the dept to about 1/2"- 3/4". It's probably going to come out wet and rotted.. That transom is flexing and needs replaced, but there is most likely rot in the stringers also

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

looks like someone tried to brace it up in a couple places (was that you, or was it like that?)
Most transoms I've seen have a SS cover on the top to keep water out, protect from holes, etc.

I don't know that I would put "a couple of grand" into a 1986 17' hull that's worth $900-$1500 in good shape. Keep the motor and trailer and get another hull.

 

[MH Hawker]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

And from the pictures the transom is separating from the core wood so it is a sign of a problem. You can do the repairs your self but it is a lot of work and a lot of people do this sort of work over a winter if you have a place to work on it.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs



No need to put cubic bucks into that transom. You can fix it yourself for about 100 bucks of aluminum if you buy it new. Less if you salvage it from a junkyard. Use about .080 to .125 hard aluminum and wrap the whole transom with angle gussets in the corners. Plate from the angles up the sides of the splashwell for added strength. This also distributes engine thrust loads through the splashwell and into the hull.

Or, you can go the simple way and use an aluminum angle 2 X 3 X 3/16 thick with the 3 inch leg on the inside and the two inch leg on the top of the transom.

Here are a couple of examples I have done. No need to worry; you won't lose your engine. This will handle all the horsepower you are willing to hang on the back of the hull. It will give you at least a couple of years more life to the boat before needing a complete restoration.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

Good Evening,


Did some research and saw a thread regarding how the transom can affect steering.

Hello Sethro ans WELCOME TO IBOATS!. Would like to know where you read this thread.... About your transom do what Matt 167 recommend regarding core samples, If have some rotten wood IMHO replace your transom, its your best bet.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

Do your core samples from the inside and if as expected, you get rot (dark wet mulch) instead of nice bright wood shavings, you will need to replace the transom. In most cases the stringers and perhaps the sole (floor) will need to be inspected/replaced too. Rot usually starts low in boats and works it's way up. Head over to the (iboats) restoration section and spend an hour reading, you will be educated on the reality of how dangerous this can be. Bolting aluminum plates on to that transom is not a very wise or safe choice IMO. My guess is most insurance policies would be voided, and you would be 100% liable for any injuries or death if you bolt plates on top of that problem.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

You will note that in the photos, that flimsy aluminum plate is not deformed at the bolts, indicating a solid base. You will also note that in the photos the transom does not appear to be unnaturally bowed. Yes, it does appear to have a small degree of bowing but nothing excessive.

In my opinion, that transom is sound enough to do a perfectly adequate external reinforcement with aluminum plating. Even if the internal wood WAS completely rotted (but it probably is not), you still would not lose the engine AND you would have plenty of warning of impending failure. And, you still have the option of treating the wood with Git-Rot, an epoxy compound that makes old transom wood better than new. Yes, expensive, but it really works.

Everyone always brings up the insurance card. It is the politically correct thing to say. Gloom and doom. --- I wonder what the reality is. Is an investigating officer (in the case of a highly unlikely death) going to see a repaired transom and state that you were negligent? Would he/she even know? Who is to say that the rot was not there at the time of plating and started AFTER the aluminum was added? Highly unlikely that insurance would not cover you.

I know my plated transoms have not failed in at least 5 years and I don't forsee where there will be any accidents due to their failure. You can still stand on the cavitation plate and bounce, with absolutely no movement to the engine or transom. I periodically check them this way.

Now you have heard the opinions so do a little research and decide what you want to do. It is, after all, your boat and your money.

 

[sethro]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

Thank you all for the replies, really appreciate this and learning a lot.

Frank A., I took a knife and poked around the horizontal crack on the transom, it's mildly moist but appears solid. Did a sound check with a hammer all around the motor mount and rear of the boat. Sounds good and solid, not hollow or dull.

I opened up both compartments (Battery and Oil Tank) in the rear, the RIGHT compartment (if you are facing the rear of the boat) is rotted. I suspect the stringer is weak and could explain the tight-to-the-left \ loose-to-the-right steering issue. Should I pull all the guts out of the RIGHT compartment and post a picture?

Also need to purchase a drill bit to obtain a good sample of the transom as suggested by Matt167 and Greenbush. Should I get a sample from behind the gas tank from the middle of the transom (front)?

Thanks everyone.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

Now you have heard the opinions so do a little research and decide what you want to do. It is, after all, your boat and your money.

 

[Splat]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

No one adressed the steering problem. More than likely the trim tab on your motor (above the prop) needs to be nudged in the direction of the pull, or more difficult direction of steering. That will help to even out your steering dilemma.

Bill

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Transom Replacement \ Repair Warning Signs

The rotten wood will have nothing to do with hard steering, it will need to be taken care of though, timing depends on how bad it is.