trim and ignition not responding

bluechevyy

Seaman
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
50
I've ask through a couple other post but, haven't really figured this out. I have 2005 Mercury 9.9 4-stroke with electronic ignition.

1st- intermittenly the ignition and the trim quit responding completely. If I waited about 20min. it would work again like nothing was wrong.

Now-Neither work at all (waiting or not). The engine won't trim and/or start with no sounds at all. I probed the power to the two main red wires under the engine cowl and there is 12v. I checked the 30amp fuse in the bright yellow holder under the engine cowl also and it looks fine. I swapped it with the spare in the holder and still no response. I probed one side of the socket in the fuse holder and it has 12v.

What do I check next?

The only thing on these posts that I have seen that might be something I need to check is the starter solenoid. Does the solenoid provide power to both the starter and the trim?

Please help with any suggestion/ideas.

Thanks,
Curt
 

Dave1027

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
1,081
Re: trim and ignition not responding

Sounds like you have a bad connection. Typically the 12v from the battery is wired first to one of the solenoids and then it hops to the others. It could be a bad connection at the fuse. That red line supplies the voltage to turn everything on. You will probably need a voltmeter to trace this out unless it's obvious.
 

bluechevyy

Seaman
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
50
Re: trim and ignition not responding

I tested some voltages in several places yesterday. The one spot I found that looks like my issue is coming from is the controller. I tested the voltage a the throttle and I only have 1.28volts. Definately no enough to activate the trim or the ignition. Not a 100% sure where to go from here, but, I trace the wires from the ignition to the battery and check the connections.
 

Sugo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
160
Re: trim and ignition not responding

Check the voltage at the battery then on the other side of the battery switch, then at the starter solenoid. (on the starter solenoid one of the big posts should have 12v) Use the battery as a ground for testing all the spots. If all good. Try re-testing using the block as a ground to rule out a bad ground to the block. If you have no voltage at these points clean the connections. If you suspect the ground cable itself is bad bypass it using a jumper cable) If the voltage checks out at the solenoid, then I would suspect the plug to the controls might have a bad connection, unplug it and clean it with electrical cleaner. When the key is in the start position there should be power to one of the small posts on the starter solenoid (you will need someone to turn the key while you check this. (unplug the spark plug wires so it wont start and keep clear of the flywheel for safety) If this checks out then use your tester (on ohms) to insure no resistance between the two large posts on the solenoid while the key is in the start position. They should both have 12v while the key is in the start position. If they do check your starter.
As the trim and the starter are independent of each other I would suspect something simple like a bad battery connection or possibly bad connections in the inline fuse. Check the voltage on both side of the inline fuse, could be the fuse holder itself.
 

bluechevyy

Seaman
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
50
Re: trim and ignition not responding

Well I finally figured this one out. The main wiring harness is about 2 feet long out of the kicker motor and the controller harness runs and connects to this and lays on the off shore bracket out of the boat (horrible design). The salt water/clean water is always washing over this and it's corroded to all *&^%. Cleaned up the connector and tested but didn't get any better. bent the wire around a bit as I tested and I could get the voltage to go from ~ 4-7 volts. but, not enough. Mercury wants ~$115 for a two foot harness, which I beleive is crazy. Beside replacing it would just lead to the same failure in another 3-5 years at the most. I am going to opt to make my own harnes out of the kicker and make it about 6 feet long so the connector meets inside the boat vs. on the offshore bracket (how Mercury should have designed it in the 1st place).

Hope this helps others!!

Curt
 
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