Trim rod seized

[Crash66]

I have a Volvo penta DPS out drive on a 1997 chaparral 240 signature.
​​​​I am trying to remove the trim rod from the back of the unit. The rod passing through the gimble pushed right out by hand. The other, I believe, is seized.
Are there any locking bolts or similar holding it in place? I cannot find anything in my shop manual or other resources that say there are. But it won't move.
I have applied some heat and a pipe wrench to get it to move with no luck. I have also soaked it in penetrating oil. I will apply more heat and a bigger pipe wrench if I am certain I am only fighting the corrosion.
Thanks for your time.

 

[Crash66]

Correction. The proper name for the part is pivot rod.

 

[Sarguy]

Having the same issue with my SX drive. Done everything but heating it. I’m worried he heat would damage the trim seals. Even beat both sides with a hammer. But this caused the ends to mushroom out a bit. Was expecting that though. But the pivot rod still won’t budge. Most likely corroded were it passes thru the trim cylinders, not the pivot housing. One suggestion...if the drive is still on the boat, push the front pivot rod through, until it frees up just one trim ram. (1/3 out) Then try to push that trim cylinder up and down. IE, try to get it to pivot on that back rod. This will tell you where the rod is sticking. If it moves freely on that side, unmount that trim cylinder. If it doesn't, do the same thing to the other side. The object is to break up that corrosion, at least on one side. Then completely remove the front pivot pin and pull the other trim cylinder, with the back pivot rod still stuck on, off the drive. You will have to remove the hydraulic lines too. Now you will be able to get at both sides of the trim cylinder with penetrating oil. If neither side wants to come loose, your gonna have to cut the pivot rod between the trim cylinder and pivot housing. There is enough room to use a Sawzall and lots of oil. This will at least let you get the trim cylinder off the drive and afford you more room to beat the rod free. And don't worry about the plastic inserts. Your gonna have to buy a new $60 pivot pin anyways. Get them while your at it.

 

[Sarguy]

BTW, Why are you wanting to remove the trim cylinders? If their leaking, you can rebuild them while still attached to the rear pivot pin.

 

[Crash66]

Thanks.
I replaced all of the hydraulic lines. The ports on the trim rams were in bad shape so I replaced them. The front pivot rod, the one closest to the transom, pushed out with my fingers. The back pivot rod, the one at the back outdrive itself, was seized.
I heated the out drive where the rod passed through and not the rod. Spayed it with penetrating oil a lot, put a pipe wrench on it, a cheater bar and hit it with a bfh. It slowly began to rotate and then move. I thinned the end I was pushing through with a grinder and more oil, more heat it slid right out. Honed where the rod passed through the case, ample amounts of grease and installed the new one. Slid right in.

 

[Crash66]

I purchased a kit that basically rebuilds the system after it passes through the transom. It came with the four lines, o-rings, rams and pivot rods.
It is a 97. The steel parts to aluminium parts add salt water has virtually "welded" a lot of parts together. Patience... Now it is as new as yesterday.

 

[Sarguy]

Nice job! My problem is actually the opposite of yours. My aft pin came right out. My forward pin is still stuck good. I have the drive off now doing a bellows replacement and corrosion maintenance. Trim cylinder rebuild kit comes Monday. If I don’t get the forward pin out, no big problem. If a weeks worth of beating and penetrating oil doesn’t work, I can just cut the pin. We boat in salt water too, so I would highly recommend coating the new pins with green marine grease! I have 18 years and about 3000hrs on my u joints and shaft bearing. And they look almost brand new because of that stuff.