Trim sender grommet clamp

DanD34

Seaman
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
59
I have a alpha one gen one with 3.0 engine that I bought last summer. Going through doing maintenance this winter on it. Searched the forum and couldn't find this question answered. Anyway, I am currently replacing trim limit and position senders. Had to buy a cheap 7/16 wrench and bend into "S" shape to get the upper bolt out of the grommet cover where wires go into boat. Lower bolt easy to remove. I see that in the mercury parts catalog that the two bolt cover was NLA and was replaced by the newer one bolt cover. Am I correct in the assumption that one could simply buy a one bolt cover and use it on my older drive? Seems that the bolt holes are blind so leaking through the unused bolt hole shouldn't be an issue. Just seems like trying to get that upper bolt started and tightened may be a long difficult job and the wrench squeezes those wires pretty good as well. Didn't care about the old ones but don't want to mess up the new wires. Any thoughts?
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,259
Yes, that's how it's done. What isn't recommend is using the 2 bolt cover with only one bolt. Because the 2 bolt cover isn't as thick.
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
I've seen video where owner replaced sender and limit switch and routed wires (leads) through drilled hole in gimbal housing (aluminum port and stb sides) and then drilled another hole above tiller part of gimbal housing (fiberglass part of transom), where he routed wires to inside transom. Then, he filled fiberglass hole with 5200. Since, I had to remove and rebuild my latest Bravo drives (including billows), I had easier access to that POS MC design and could more easily install new wires. If I hadn't, I would have drilled holes. Good luck!
 

DanD34

Seaman
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
59
Yes, that's how it's done. What isn't recommend is using the 2 bolt cover with only one bolt. Because the 2 bolt cover isn't as thick.

Thanks for the reply. The part about just using one bolt in the two bolt cover was something I thought about but figured it was probably stronger either via thicker or a different material. The couple of dollars for a new cover will be money well spent.
 

DanD34

Seaman
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
59
I've seen video where owner replaced sender and limit switch and routed wires (leads) through drilled hole in gimbal housing (aluminum port and stb sides) and then drilled another hole above tiller part of gimbal housing (fiberglass part of transom), where he routed wires to inside transom. Then, he filled fiberglass hole with 5200. Since, I had to remove and rebuild my latest Bravo drives (including billows), I had easier access to that POS MC design and could more easily install new wires. If I hadn't, I would have drilled holes. Good luck!

I have everything off and ready to reinstall so no need to drill holes. Really isn't a bad job when it's all apart anyway except for that upper bolt.
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
I have everything off and ready to reinstall so no need to drill holes. Really isn't a bad job when it's all apart anyway except for that upper bolt.

as I mentioned, POS bad design. Good luck!!!!!!
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,477
I finally bought a "Gear Wrench" type ratcheting 7/16" box end combo with pivoting head. In my mind it's the best tool for this job.
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,477
Also, this really is a two person job, per the instructions. Getting the clamp cap screw started is very tough. So having a helper pull the wires and split grommet seal into the transom is almost a must.

Last time I changed mine I had to do it alone. I went to the hardware store and bought a SS cap screw 1/4" longer than OEM. Getting it started was a cinch. But of course it was too long, bottoming out before tight. I used Kentucky windage and started grinding down the end of the screw until it bit, and tightened to contact with 1-2 threads remaining to fully tighten.

I think it ended up about 1/8 - 3/16" longer than OEM.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,309
Had to buy a cheap 7/16 wrench and bend into "S" shape to get the upper bolt out of the grommet cover where wires go into boat.

Ayuh,..... Those are the places where a 1/4" drive ratchet, various length extensions, a wobbly, 'n socket work well,....
 
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