The plug wire that goes into the coil...... cut a small portion of the insulation away so that the inner wire can be folded back against the insulation, then trim the excess wire away so that it does not extend past the circular form of the wire. Do the same with the plug end so that the plug spring connector actually touches the inner wire.
Now, the prong inside the coil that the coil wire attaches to has a spiral taper to it. A little WD40 on the plug wire as a lubricant will allow the wire to easily be inserted and screwed onto that prong... stop when you feel the resistance indicating you're as far as you should go.
The rubber boot, spark plug end.... With the wire cut to the length required, trim back 1/4" insulation again but do not solder tint the wires. Simply fan out the wires and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess off as explained above. Holding the spring wire terminal, estimate where the prong should be inserted so that the spring will be flush against the exposed wire. Hold the spring terminal away from the wires end (sideways) and insert the prong into the insulation and into the center wire, then swing the spring terminal in front of the exposed wire portion (makes a tight fit for continuity purposes). Spraying the inner portion of the boot where the wire will insert with a small amount of WD40 makes the installation of the wire a easy project.
That ought to cure your continuity problem.
*************************************************
Now, as far as the coil installation!
********************
(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)
To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.
********************
