hornblower
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2009
- Messages
- 35
Bought a motor. I did my best to check it out good. No obvious visual problems. Checked compression, after a 5 minute warm up 90# on both cylinders after 2 pulls, 100+ after 4 pulls. Started up on 2nd pull. Ran smooth, reved nice, in and out of gear smoothly, reved nice in gear. Peehole pumping fine. Showed signs of replaced parts but all looked fine. The old story, it ran fine on the test stand.
Got it home, put it on the boat for a test run. Started first pull and ran smooth. Idling down the canal and after 3-4 minutes quit, never to start no more no more...
Ruled out fuel as a problem, trust me I did everything right down to priming both cylinders directly with clean dry plugs and not a mpfffttt of trying to fire.
So, checked for spark. None that I could see in daylight but I looked real close and believe there is none. Most likely cause the Power Pack BUT I refuse to just start replacing parts without having done my best to isolate the problem. So with a multimeter this is what I checked,
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/OB images/electrical_manual1.gif <--- Link to electrical diagram
Starting at the wires coming from under the flywheel I checked continuity and found that the 2 brown wires were a short so I assume they go to the charge coil and assume the charge coil is where the engine gets its power for the ignition. Hooking up the leads of the meter to the 2 brown wires and setting the meter on 200 volts AC I pulled the rope start and got 38 to 40 volts each pull. Possibly normal? I assume that the other 2 wires go to the sensor. No idea how to check it if it could be the problem.
I checked both coils for continuity and both showed they were not open, approx 8 ohms resistance so I'm assuming OK since it is doubtful both coils would go at once anyway and if one was bad it would still try to fire on one cylinder.
Both plugs are new and pulling them they looked fine.
Attempted to start the motor without the cover (Exhaust leak) Nope, not that.
OH, of course I checked the kill switch by disconnecting it where it grounds to the block. Nope.
So, I believe it is a power pack that malfunctions when warm. Allowing the motor to cool for an hour did not help. I'll try again in the cool morning.
Have I missed anything? Any other test I should do before replacing the Power Pack?
Thanks for reading
Got it home, put it on the boat for a test run. Started first pull and ran smooth. Idling down the canal and after 3-4 minutes quit, never to start no more no more...
Ruled out fuel as a problem, trust me I did everything right down to priming both cylinders directly with clean dry plugs and not a mpfffttt of trying to fire.
So, checked for spark. None that I could see in daylight but I looked real close and believe there is none. Most likely cause the Power Pack BUT I refuse to just start replacing parts without having done my best to isolate the problem. So with a multimeter this is what I checked,
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/OB images/electrical_manual1.gif <--- Link to electrical diagram
Starting at the wires coming from under the flywheel I checked continuity and found that the 2 brown wires were a short so I assume they go to the charge coil and assume the charge coil is where the engine gets its power for the ignition. Hooking up the leads of the meter to the 2 brown wires and setting the meter on 200 volts AC I pulled the rope start and got 38 to 40 volts each pull. Possibly normal? I assume that the other 2 wires go to the sensor. No idea how to check it if it could be the problem.
I checked both coils for continuity and both showed they were not open, approx 8 ohms resistance so I'm assuming OK since it is doubtful both coils would go at once anyway and if one was bad it would still try to fire on one cylinder.
Both plugs are new and pulling them they looked fine.
Attempted to start the motor without the cover (Exhaust leak) Nope, not that.
OH, of course I checked the kill switch by disconnecting it where it grounds to the block. Nope.
So, I believe it is a power pack that malfunctions when warm. Allowing the motor to cool for an hour did not help. I'll try again in the cool morning.
Have I missed anything? Any other test I should do before replacing the Power Pack?
Thanks for reading