Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

[Solittle]

I have a 1988 23' CC with twin SeaDrives, two seperate batteries and two master switches (off/1/2/both). I bought two new batteries at the end of last year. I used the boat a couple of times after they were installed with no problem.<br /><br />I haven't used the boat in the last month and went down to Key Largo today to do a few things and checked both batteries. One checked OK. The other read 0.8 volts with my digital meter. Both master switches were set to off. The only thing I have direct connected to the battery is a ground (I think for the bilge pump). Sooo I have am electrical leak somewhere.<br /><br />I have a mental block when it comes to things electrical and need help on how to troubleshoot and find the problem. I have only a digital meter but don't know where to start or how to go about it.<br /><br />Howard<br /><br />PS - I took the dead battery to Wal Mart and they replaced it without question - I liked that!!

 

[kcole683]

Re: Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

Were both battery switches in the off position when the battery went down?<br />If so then you may have just had a bad battery unless you have loads ahead of the switches ,like bilge pumps etc.<br /><br />Try to look for a leak with your digital meter. If your meter has an amp meter in it you can find the amount of current leaking. The amp meter goes in series with the battery lead.<br />Caution make sure everything is off and set meter to highest scale.<br />Do NOT turn any loads on or you may let the smoke out of your meter(all electrical devices are made with smoke built in if you let it out then you screwed it up) With all loads turned off check to see if the meter shows any leakage. If you have a drain it will show up now.<br />To find the leak start pulling fuses one at a time until all current is gone. Remember radios with memory and clocks have a very minute drain that usually won't drain a battery for a couple of months.<br />If you have a clamp on amp meter that reads DC you are better off using it if it has a low scale.<br />You can't hardly let the smoke out of a clamp on.<br />Good luck

 

[imported_Mike_M2]

Re: Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

Even tho there may not be anything connected to the battery, there may be something connected at the switch. Most bilge pumps are connect directly to battery so you cannot turn them off, but are wired to the back of the switch instead of the battery itself. This may be the case with yours too. Follow the red wire from the battery to the back of the switch and see if there is anything else connected to that same terminal. if so, whatever that wire is could be the culprit. Also, if you have any type of Mercathode system it may also be connected in this manner to prevent it from being shut off.<br />To do any kind of current draw test, your multimeter will have to have a 10a circuit. You know this by a separate place to plug your red lead in the front marked 10a. If you do, you could remove the positive terminal from the battery in question and placing the red lead on the battery terminal and the black lead on the positive battery post. This allows any current flowing from the battery to flow thru the meter. A normal reading should be anywhere from zero up to 0.06amps. Anything higher and there is a draw that will drain the battery over time. Hope this helps, but honestly if you don't want to get into it this far and the boat is kept on dry land you could always just remove the positve terminal after each use.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

Thanks guys - The only thing that is directly connected to the battery is the bilge pump and its float switch. I'll check on stuff connected to the master switch.<br /><br />My digital meter has a setting for DCmA with ranges of 2/20/200. Can I use this for testing without letting out the smoke monster? There is a pin socket at the bottom of the meter which has mA above it and 500mA FUSED below it but I don't know what it is for.<br /><br />I had thought about pulling the positive cable from the battery after each use and will do that until I find the problem. Problem with that is if I want to leave the boat in the water for a couple of days I will have no power for the bilge pump which would make me quite nervous. The boat is normally in rack storage in Key Largo(40 miles away) but on occasion I like to leave it in the water.<br /><br />I plan on going down tomarrow to check further. Hints & tips most welcome.

 

[imported_Mike_M2]

Re: Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

No, i'm afraid your meter won't test current draw. It would have to have a lead connector marked 10a to do it, as the draw would be over 500ma. If you are going to leave the boat floating for a day or two, leave the bilge working. Better to have a low battery than a sunk boat!

 

[jeff_nicholas]

Re: Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

Are you sure both batteries were fully charged when you left the boat last time? Maybe you've got a charging problem on one motor? <br /><br />Maybe the main switch isn't fully disconnecting?<br /><br />Disconnect the main wire from the switch to the boat. With the switch OFF, you shouldn't have any votlage between that switch terminal ground.<br /><br />There is always the chance that the battery was defective - you'd know this if the problem follows the battery when you swap batteries.<br /><br />Where do you hang out in FL. I'll be coming down that way in a month, maybe we can rub fenders?<br /><br />Nick in Spartanburg, SC<br /> http://www.geocities.com/jeff_nicholas/BBR.html

 

[kcole683]

Re: Troubleshooting Electrical Problem

If the meter doesn't have a higher amp ability than Milliamps then dont try it you will blow a fuse or let out the smoke.<br /><br />Usually there is a seperate lead plug in for the 0 to 10 amp range on the meter. But it should also be marked on the range dial,if all else fails look at the manual.<br /><br />Most modern meters are fuse protected some of the old ones had the fuses soldered in.