Update: 1960's 1100SS 110hp- Think it'll run?

[maverick1]

To make a long story shot, I can get a free 1967(?) Silverline DeVille 16' fiberglass boat that has a Mercury 1100SS motor. The only thing is that it has been sitting for about 3-4 years. The boat itself will need new seats and maybe a floor, but I'm not too concerned about that yet.<br /><br />My biggest concern is getting the motor running and seeing if it is even worth the time. The appearance makes it look like its in good shape but obviously that doesn't tell everything. According to the previous owner, it ran great before being parked. <br /><br />I'm first going to try to get it fired before doing anything like a water pump. I just what the basics to fire it up. I'm thinking of pulling the carb and spraying it out with cleaner, hooking up a battery, hooking up fresh fuel, and spraying lube into the cylinders and see what happens. <br /><br />What are your ideas on doing this? What else might it take to get it fired up? Is there any common problems with this motor? Finally, whats the difference between the 1100 and 1100SS motors?<br /><br />I'm hoping it'll run since the boat itself is in decent shape (minus the faded color, seats, and cheap carpet on the floor). I'll have to find a way to get out the ignition since the owner lost the keys, but I can manage that. I figure investing $15 into a new switch is enough to see if it'll run.<br /><br />Thanks

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: Update: 1960's 1100SS 110hp- Think it'll run?

Any Merc dealer can match up a key to the old ignition so long as it was (and usually is) a Mercury unit.<br /><br />Other than that, you have it right. Make sure you use the hose with the muffs to start it. And change the waterpump impeller as soon as you learn it will run.<br /><br />SS meant solid state ignition.<br />-W

 

[maverick1]

Re: Update: 1960's 1100SS 110hp- Think it'll run?

I was just able to take apart the controls to look a how to put a switch in it. Big time bad news: all the wiring to the switch was soldered on from the factory and almost all the insulation to the wires has been cracked off, leaving exposed hot and ground wires.<br /><br />I also realized that all the wood in the boat will have to be replaced. <br /><br />I need to think this over and decide what to do. I would like to save the motor and trailer for another boat but I don't know since the motor doesn't even run right now.<br /><br />Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[mellowyellow]

Re: Update: 1960's 1100SS 110hp- Think it'll run?

check compression in cylinders... if it's good,<br />then run her on another hull.<br />good luck,<br />MY

 

[vampirefish]

Re: Update: 1960's 1100SS 110hp- Think it'll run?

Howdy - just wanted to add that I too have a boat that is in poor condition, not quite as bad as yours though (the floor, seat and much wiring will have to be replaced - not all of the wood, thank goodness). I did, however finally get the engine started...so want to try and save my boat. My weakest link was the wiring, as I've found out is very common with boats.<br /><br />Anyhow (my reason for replying: -- you'll have to replace wires regardless of your decision to axe the boat, I'm thinking). I opened up my control box (thought my ignition was the weak link in not being able to start the engine). Sure enough, same scenario as yours - all the wiring to the switch was soldered on from the factory and almost all the insulation to the wires has been cracked off, leaving exposed hot and ground wires. <br /><br />My switch is good, just not the wires. I know this because I was lucky enough to move around my ignition (I temporarily repaired the wires with electrical tape), turned the key and viola - she started!<br /><br />My plan of action: I have a solder gun, so heated up the terminals and managed to clean off the old wires. I have extra wire (from my extra long harness) so I'm able to use the remaining wire (in good condition) to resolder. So...I guess what I'm trying to say is that (if you want to keep your boat OR need to keep the control -- I'm thinking you do for an older merc) you can either a)buy a new ignition switch and solder new wires or b)clean off your old ignition switch and solder the wires. I'm going to do B because I know my switch is good. I do have to replace a lot of wiring, but that isn't really too expensive.