UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

[4691352123cherry]

Hi,<br /><br />I have read the many posts on the shift cable adjustment, including Stuarts great website. I now have the courage to try this on my own. I have an 88 19' Starcraft bowrider with a GM 4.3L and OMC Cobra. <br /><br />This boat has only 104 hours, but sadly, was stored outside for many years. It has the original black shift cable, so no recall fix done.<br /><br />I would appreciate any tips from pros or those who have changed this cable.<br /><br />Questions:<br /><br />After removing the outdrive, how difficult is it to remove and replace the cable? I'm concerned about feeding the cable through the transom and cable sheath. Do I need to access the inside transom? The cable exits undeneath the motor, so I don't see how this can be done without pulling the motor.<br /><br />My parts list includes:<br /><br />New cable assembly<br />U-joint Bellows<br />Exhaust Bellows<br />Shift Cable Bellows<br />Gimbal Bearing<br />Transom seal kit<br /><br />What other misc parts/supplies are needed (o-rings, grease, permatex, etc)?<br /><br />Do I need anything else? What else should I look for while the unit is disassembled?<br /><br />Any hints, tips, or tricks are appreciated.

 

[notinbig]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

The shift cable is not the difficult part, that comes when you feel you've conquered all and try to put the lower unit back in. The cable feeds through a tube to the top of the motor so no water comes in. Install is straight forward, but I ended up taking it to a dealer to get the lower unit back on.good luck<br /><br />size DOESN'T matter?!?!?!?

 

[Lark40]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

I recently replaced everything on your list myself using an auto engine lift. <br /><br />But, the existing red shift cable must have gotten kinked because afterwards the engine was in "neutral lock-out" state. It had been very difficult to get the pivot unattached from the shift cable.<br /><br />So, I had to pay an experienced J/E shop to pull the drive again and install and guarantee the shift cable.<br /><br />Cost me about $700 for the shop work.

 

[4691352123cherry]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Yikes!<br /><br />Is this too complicated for the DIY'er?<br /><br />Has anyone successfully done this without dragging the boat into a shop?

 

[Pete30]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Mark,<br /><br />I am getting ready to attempt the same thing. Keep us posted on how it comes out. Good Luck!

 

[denniz]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Lark40 that sounds high, I charge $210. labor plus parts( about 125.00)

 

[Lark40]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Thanks for making my day, Rod.<br /><br />There was 8 hours labor at $70 per hour plus parts (cable and seal kit).<br /><br />I agree that was too much, but the other former OMC dealer in my area wanted even more...and this shop did it right away.

 

[4691352123cherry]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Notinbig, what specific problem did you have putting the drive back on? I have this premonition of dragging everything to a shop in pieces.<br /><br />Pete, I'm in Melbourne, FL. We should line em up side by side and do them at the same time <grin>.<br /><br />Hey Rod, how about some tips or answers to earlier questions? I'd sure like to hear from someone with experience...

 

[denniz]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

You had a seal kit too, so there was more than a cable replacement. Probably 4 hrs to reseal upper or lower. 8hrs. doesnt sound all that bad now. I thought it was just a cable replacement.

 

[denniz]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Cable replacement isnt that hard. Getting the settings right with out proper tools is another story. Sometimes getting the drive back on is tough. No shame in boxing it up and taking it to a shop.

 

[Pete30]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Mark, we can do them side by side, but only if we do yours first! haha

 

[clanton]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

To reinstall the drive, use alignment tool to center gimble bearing, lots of grease on outside edge of bellows and u-joint housing, hold drive and drive shaft as close to the alignment of the gimble bearing and engine couple as possible, stab it home, while watching the shift cable. One of the install problems is the bellows is too small for the u-joint, later models had a smaller u-joint.

 

[Wekims]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Did the cable replacement/adjustment myself. Actual work wasn't too tough. Read the Stuart info - more than once to understand what to do. Just go step by step and take your time. Hint: my old cable was binding because the bell crank bushing was filled with corrosion making the shifting very hard. Make sure you clean it out and lube - doesn't matter if you replace and adjust the cable if the bellcrank is stuck. Also, since you got the drive off - lube everything, change the u-joint bellows (cheap insurance, wish I did it the last time!), check gimbal bearing and u-joints.<br /><br />All this is easy compare to putting the drive back on. Two man operation. Need a hoist or hang drive from swimstep. Spray WD40 on the bellows, yoke, etc. to make it go in easier. Turn yoke with long bar to engage spline in engine. Try bumping starter (disconnect sparkplugs!) while shoving it in.

 

[PT]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

unless i missed it , replace the oil seal that goes right in front of the gimbal bearing, also the 2 o rings on the drive shaft & the o ring for the water outlet. On the cable adjustment stuart tells ya how to do it , read it & follow his instructions unless you wanna take it off & redo it like i had to do..

 

[4691352123cherry]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Thanks everyone for tips. I will post how it goes. Right now, I'm tracking the parts from Canada to FLA. Hope they get here by tomorrow.<br /><br />The manual says use OMC Triple Guard Grease and OMC Locquic thread sealer for this job. Can I just use wheel bearing grease and loctite?

 

[4691352123cherry]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Finished the cable switch today. Really glad I decided to try this on my own. It's not too difficult.<br /><br />Had the manual, which helped, but Stuart's on-line info was priceless.<br /><br />Review:<br /><br />Pulling the outdrive was really simple. Drop the tilt cylinders, undo six mounting bolts. Muscle the outdrive off. We didn't use a hoist, but two people are required.<br /><br />Once the outdrive was off, the first thing we did was break the nut off the water hose nipple. Right away, this is gonna take two weeks to finish because of the parts. Be careful removing the water hose nipple, or get one before you begin, about $10.<br /><br />Replaced exhaust and u-joint bellows and shift cable. Very simple. Interestingly, the old cable was pretty free, but the bell crank housing was full of salt crystals, preventing full travel of the crank. I probably didn't need a cable, but since it was the pre-recall, I replaced it anyway.<br /><br />Cable adjustment is straightforward. Get Stuarts info and read it several times until you understand it.<br /><br />Cleaned up all the salt corrosion, replaced the gaskets and o-rings, and muscled that outdrive back on. I don't know why others had problems with this. With two people (one very strong), this can be done without a hoist. Take your time and line everything up.<br /><br />Torque it down, reattach the trim cylinders, and move on to engine bracket adjustment.<br /><br />Engine bracket adjustment is pretty simple. Find neutral, set the (barrel?) and clamp it down. Trailer testing went well, shifts easy in and out of fwd and reverse.<br /><br />It was getting late, and storms were brewing, so I couldn't test in the water, but I have no reason to think it'll be a problem.<br /><br />All in all, about two to three hours of work. Have a helper, take your time, read the manual and on-line info, read it again. No special tools needed, other than u-joint socket adapter and 1/2" ball hex wrench, and a torque wrench.<br /><br />Good luck.<br /><br />Mark

 

[tylerin]

Re: UPDATE - Help with OMC Lower Shift Cable

Just got doing this myself on a 87 4.3. I don't know if you replaced exhaust bellows but if you did you'll notice the slits cut into it(sounds differant at idle). Don't forget to put new seals around drain and fill plugs and also dipstick plug. replace o-ring at the top of drive. The prop shaft seal has leaked on me w/ this drive before. Very easy procedure but make sure the drain plugs out. It creates vacuum. You were lucky you had help. Good Luck