UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

[rcdatadude]

I'm troubleshooting the precision blend system on my 1990 Yamaha ProV 150. I've checked all the continuity based on posts I've found on this forum, and the results fall in line with what others have posted. The last thing I tried was to turn the key on to apply 12V to the brown wire going to the remote tank. Then I grounded the blue wire. It didn't appear that anything was happening. Should I be able to hear the oil pump running? The emergency switch doesn't appear to start the pump either. I guess, based on that, the oil pump needs to be replaced. Is there a fuse in the link anywhere between the oil pump and the first disconnect in the harness? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[cousinabe]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

sounds like you are doing the correct tests.
I would take the pump out of the remote tank and test it. (#9)
I have had oil harness corrosion issues myself. (#32)

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1990/PROV150LD/OIL TANK/parts.html

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Thanks for your reply! I've been trying to get the remote tank out of my Ranger 481V. I don't see how "whoever" put this in actually got it installed....because I don't see anyway outside of bending the metal frame to get it out. It appears to have a "lip" on the frame, so the only way to get it out is to lift it out. Problem is... I have about 2" clearance above the top of the tank. I guess I'm going to have to slide it out of the frame, but do that, I have to bend it enough to get it to slide. I've noticed in the manual that all of the hoses, pump, and wiring are recessed in channels on the side of the remote tank. Hopefully, I won't tear anything up getting it out. Any ideas??

 

[rodbolt]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

there are two bullet connectors behind the tank for the oil pump.
access them,with them hooked up ,insert the red meter lead into the brown connector. attach the black lead to ground.
with key on you should have 12v,now operate the manual toggle, you should still see about 12v. if the voltage goes away hunt for a corroded connector or wire.
now insert both meter leads into the bullet connectors, with key on engine off and the oil tank full you should have about 0 volts. now toggle the manual and you should have about 11v.
does your trim sender still work? that engine uses the trim sender to allow automatic transfer.

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

I know this may sound like a dumb question, but how do you verify the trim sender is working. I have a manual, but it seems to use the trim sender and trim sensor interchangeably. The manual says the resistance should be between 489 -735 ohms between the black and pink wires...black to orange needs to be between 300-1200 ohms. Is that the only way to check the trim sender?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

if you dont have the digital tach or a trim guage thats about the only way.

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Thanks Rodbolt! Concerning an earlier question regarding the bending of the metal frame to get the remote oil tank out of the boat..... Will I "tear" something up by bending the frame to get the tank out? I noticed, based on pictures in the manual, that the pump, hoses, and wiring are recessed in channels on the side of the tank, but I can't see them.

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Re: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Update:

Okay... I finally got the remote tank out of the boat by bending (slightly) the metal frame housing the tank. I put 12V across the brown (+) and blue (-). I couldn't hear the motor running. It just clicked when I apply voltage. I took the filter out of the line, and applied 12V to the pump. It started pumping slowly, and then sped up a bit. It appears to be moving oil now (without the filter). I wiped the filter off and blew in one end. Some oil came out. I can't say it was easy to blow through the filter, but it wasn't necessarily hard either. I guess replacing the filter makes the most sense. I probably need to clean the tank out as well. I guess the big question is....Do I need to replace the pump along with the filter? Is there anyway to validate that the pump is not weak?

 

[cousinabe]

Re: UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

could be gummed up pretty good.
I would take it all a part.
Clean out the sludge from the tank, get some carb cleaner and clean out the oil from the pump. you can buy a new filter(#6)on boats.net.
afterwards, you can perform the 180 second oil transfer test. search the forum.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1990/PROV150LD/OIL TANK/parts.html

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Another update. I cleaned the filter out as best I could....put it back inline. I added about 5 feet of line to the output side of the pump to simulate the connection to the Main tank. I wanted to measure the flow rate. I applied 12V, and the pump started pumping. Before the oil started coming out of the end of the line, I could hear the pump slowing down and then crawling to a stop. No oil came out of the end of the hose.....

BTW, is there a special tool to get the pump out of the remote tank? I would like to try and clean it along with the tank and filter replacement. Still trying to figure out whether I need to buy another pump..... Are there rebuild kits available for the pump?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

mmm.
pump roughly 125 dollars.
new ecu about 1000 dollars.
would be worth testing the current draw of the pump.
no published spec but should not exceed about 5 amps.
either something is binding in the pump or one of the pump wires or connections are bad.
pump simply pulls out of the tank.
I guess the special tool would be the opposable thumb.
biggest cause of ECU failure on the 1990 and later 2.6L motors is excessive oil pump current draw that can burn out the oil control module inside the ECU.

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Ouch! $1000 for a new ECU? I'm assuming the ECU and the CDI unit are the same thing. I measured the current draw on the pump and it didn't go above 2.6 Amps even when the pump appeared to be in a bind. While it was running, it drew about 1.6 Amps max. The boat hasn't been back in the water since the alarms started going off. My guess is it was happening when I bought the boat, but I only had it out a couple of times. I guess I need to replace the pump and then check the ECU.... Can I check the ECU with a digital meter to see if it's functioning correctly, or will I have to put everything back together and let it run? BTW, thanks to all for taking the time to reply to my previous posts....

 

[rodbolt]

Re: UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

pretty much put it all back together, but carefully check for corroded wires.
do some forum searching on precision blend and you will find a lot of info on how it works.

 

[rcdatadude]

Re: UPDATE: oil pump on remote tank....I think

Once I get the pump replaced and the system put back together, would it be advisable to put an inline fuse (say 2.5 amps) into the circuit that feeds the remote pump? If the CDI is still functional, I would rather protect it with a 50 cent fuse that spending a $1000 on a new CDI. I measured the current when the pump wasn't pumping oil (stalled). It was about 2.6 Amps....running it was about 1.6 Amps. Anyway, just trying to avoid replacing the CDI when/if there's an overcurrent condition with the remote pump.