Re: update on 1988 J&E 120/140 p h/bracket swap
took it to water today to set timing per J.reeves & to check spark with homemade checker.<br />here are the results<br />-<br />intial check revealed blue spark that could be seen with brite 1pm sun directly on checker- except on #1 -changed out coil, than wire then both.<br />got good blue spark all 4 @ 7/16 gap.<br />-<br />set advance spark to mr reeves way which for me was 18-4= 14 btdc.<br />idle timing was very close to required 8 atdc.<br />-<br />verified that grounding tan warning horn wires would sound- ok<br />-<br />put all plugs back in OL78 gap .30, book called for QL77 - i figured i was going to run a little extra oil at first (40 to 1), also to help burn off fogging oil. <br />-<br />i pumped the primer holding strait up for a good amount of time to ensure no leaks & all dry lines got fuel.<br />bulb was very firm.<br />-<br />turned key on & pushing in counting to 10 & also holding in while cranking.<br />fired rite up.<br />smoked alot, took a few for pisser & gauge.????<br />-<br />idle with control in neutral was rite at 900 rpm<br />in gear 700 to 750 rpm. good for me.<br />checked all plug wires with timing lite- all good.<br />idle timing rite before 8 atdc. good<br />--<br />i let idle 5 to 10 mins.<br /> pushed in key to activate primer- it shut down. good <br />pulled plugs comp test.<br />throttle plates closed all cylinders rite between 120 to 125 psi. (same as cold)<br />wide open all cylinders 130psi<br />another spark check - all good.<br />-------------------------------<br /> now here is a problem <br />started rite back up, water gauge at 900rpm 6 to 8 psi ???<br />yes line for gauge it is at the adapter plate & not the exit.<br />looked at pisser it was getting thinner, than mixed with air & getting hot.<br />touched both tops of heads & block.<br />shut down to let cool.<br />-<br />pulled plugs comp test 130psi all, spark good.<br />figured maybe with tide coming in debri around lower unit.<br />started rite back up, pressure went to 8psi - better stream out of pisser.<br />heads/ block seemed warm.<br />-<br />with still on trailer moved throttle to 2000, psi jumped to 14, 2500 psi alittle closer to 20 psi<br />at 3000 as i felt rpm start to drop- i backed down to idle.<br />i looked at pisser and you could tell that there was air in the water & kinda hot.<br />also had water spitting out of exhaust.<br />-<br />comp test 120 to 125 closed, 130 psi all wot. good spark<br />ok dont think i damaged anything, packed up after 5 hours at landing. luckly there was no one fishing today.<br />================<br />here is my what i think is happening.<br />1- new water pump needs to be checked, along with new exhaust housing seals<br />=<br />2-power head needs to be pulled & replace new base gasket w/ new one. & retorque after intial start up. <br />i figure some of the fogging oil leaked onto gasket along with not retorquing before proceeding with power up.<br />(this time using a cherry picker instead of 2 6ft+ rednecks.)<br />=<br />3- pull heads to make sure no major damage & replace resurfaced heads with the 1993 125esx #339310 heads that came with power head<br />=<br />4-install larger elbow for hose to pisser<br />=<br />5-install new water gauge hose, as i was using 1994 bayliner speedo hose from the force motor.<br />-----<br />now something else that is odd, the new black tstats are the same ones i used on the last power head 1 time (3 to 6 hrs) before it crapped out.<br />is it possible to get 2 new bad stats or is the vernatherm a different temp setting in the black ones?<br />the other is these are the same heads just resurfaced 10ths.<br />but the comp i dont think is that high.<br />-<br />sorry so long but tried to cover everything.<br />-<br />any suggestions or input's??
