Re: updating an outboard motor
Are you sure you really want to go black? Sure, it looks pretty when waxed but in the sun it will get hot enough to burn you--Thats the reason I went white with my Force. Climbing in over the back after skiing, I get singed.
With black, first thing that happens is it gets viciously hot. Secondly, in time it starts to fade. Third, it checks and then chalks off. All in all, I consider it to be a bad choice for outboards.
I have done a number of hoods. They are plastic, not fiberglass, so any repairs need to be done with epoxy. The stock decals can be removed with a straight edge razor blade and the residual adhesive can be removed safely with Xylene (Home Depot paint dept).
I have used automotive primer and rattle cans of acrylic because I was too lazy to gunk up my air gun on such a small surface. Acrylic is hard and bright but does tend to chip because of its hardness. Now, anything aluminum must be sanded well, and primed with zinc chromate primer--otherwise the paint will flake off in a relatively short time. On the hood, I usually go about 4-5 coats of primer with progressively finer sanding in between. Then, after the first color coat shows all imperfections I use spot filler. Then I use about 5-6 coats of color with 600 to 1000 grit wet sanding. If I was using my air gun, I would mist a coat of straight thinner to gloss up and level the final coat prior to finish sanding (if needed) and waxing. My experience is that a clear coat yellows in about two years so I don't use one. Next hood I do, I am going to try Rustoleum Plastic Primer.
Have you considered decals? I just completed a Chrysler hood with custom auto decals and it came out better than I expected. Since I can't post pictures here (I can't set the time on my VCR and DVD either) I will send you a private message with the photo of it. Cost 37 bucks for each decal and 65 bucks to buy the print so I would get a really good decal shot from it. Decals are guaranteed for seven years.