Voltage regulator? Do I even *HAVE* a voltage regulator?

[DJ_Allatoona]

1986 Mercury 75hp Outboard. I have this ongoing issue with my electronics acting weird, and I noticed today that my fish finder was displaying a reading of 17.5 volts. (Picture attached. Ignore the depth, it goes bananas at WOT) So I start reading about voltage regulators and how they go bad and testing them, etc.

My trusty SELOC book doesn't have anything about voltage regulators. The words VOLTAGE REGULATOR aren't even in the book! Plenty about rectifiers and stators and the entire electrical/charging system.

So what's up with the mysterious Voltage Regulator? If I don't have one, cool: they're expensive. Rectifiers are cheap and easy to swap out. Should I R&R my rectifier and see if that mellows out the voltage? I also just installed a new stereo system and I prefer to not fry the hell out of that.

Thanks for your attention.

P.S...*edit* Don't know why the picture is so small. I just hit the 'upload' button and chose the picture. The original picture is much bigger & easier to see.

 

[roscoe]

you have a rectifier only.

Don't know how replacing it will change anything.

 

[Scott Danforth]

without a voltage regulator at the motor, the battery becomes the voltage regulator. if you have a loose connection at the battery, you could see higher voltages elsewhere.

 

[gm280]

With the 17.5 volt reading at the depth finder, it is obvious there is no voltage regulator. But that shouldn't be a real problem. If you are really worried about a stereo installation, you could install a voltage regular for the stereo power line. But depending on the stereo manufacturer, the higher voltages may not be any issue. Some of the manufacturers have well regulated internal supplies for their systems. However, if you connect the stereo up and it has any issues, then I would install a voltage regulator for that power line. You can buy system regulators and install them after the rectifier and have everything regulated. But I would fist see if you really have a need to do that... JMHO!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

You mentioned that your electronics were acting weird, how?

 

[Thalasso]

Unless i am looking at something wrong,I find the regulator every where for the motor







http://youtu.be/yPmj3J4fOBc

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

You mentioned that your electronics were acting weird, how?

Sometimes the fishfinder (Garmin 160 Blue) gives me a message that says, "Voltage Too High" then it shuts off. That only happens when I'm running quite fast. When I turn it back on after I slow down or stop, I don't see that message,

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

Unless i am looking at something wrong,I find the regulator every where for the motor







http://youtu.be/yPmj3J4fOBc

Yeah, I've seen those, too. But is it some after-market add-on accessory that Mercury doesn't install? I have no idea where to install that, and like I said, there's zero mention of a voltage regulator in my SELOC book.

 

[gm280]

DJ, that aftermarket regulator is actually both a rectifier and a voltage regulator. So you simply remove the present wires coming from the stator to the rectifier and install that unit in its place. The wire colors should match up with the present wires. And the output should then be both rectified AND voltage regulated as well. It is totally up to you if you want to install one. But that would indeed solve you initial problem with high voltage reading perfectly... JMHO!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I do agree that solving the problem at the source (the engine) is the right way to go and it will make sure all of the current electronics as well as any that you might add in the future will work fine. However, just to give you another alternative in case you are not ready for the engine side regulator now for any reason; this one will solve the Garmin problem (only) and it is water proof.

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Regulator...tage+Regulator

I am not recommending you do this since this is a solution for one device but as I said, just to give you another alternative in case you need it. There are much powerful versions (at different out amps ratings) of this regulator that can be added to the feed line that is going to the dash to power all electronics. One of these can keep the voltage pretty steady @12 with enough amps to feed multiple circuits

 

[GA_Boater]

Your regulator is probably working fine. As said above, with no regulator the battery acts as the regulator. I would clean all the connections on the battery and all the connections under the cowl the battery feeds to, both positive and negative. That includes the red lead on the rectifier. I would also look at the boat side connector to the motor to see if any corrosion is on the pins. You've been having starter and choke troubles from other posts. These could all be electrically related.

DJ - is your motor serial number between A197882 - B249479? If the SN is not in that range, what is the SN? All I am going to say is based on that assumption, so it may not be 100% true for your motor, but it's pretty close.

Your motor has a rectifier only, no regulator. It look should look similar to like this;



The CDI regulator referred to is not just a regulator , it is a rectifier/regulator. First it has too many wires to be only a regulator and even CDI confirms it is a reg/rect here - http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/194-5279.pdf I don't know why it's labeled as only a regulator when it has both functions. You can use this version of Mercs reg/rect from CDI to replace your rectifier if you decide to go that way.

 

[Barnacle_Bill]

What GA_Boater said and also make sure you are using a marine battery and not an automotive. Yes there is a difference.

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

Your regulator is probably working fine. As said above, with no regulator the battery acts as the regulator. I would clean all the connections on the battery and all the connections under the cowl the battery feeds to, both positive and negative. That includes the red lead on the rectifier. I would also look at the boat side connector to the motor to see if any corrosion is on the pins. You've been having starter and choke troubles from other posts. These could all be electrically related.

DJ - is your motor serial number between A197882 - B249479? If the SN is not in that range, what is the SN? All I am going to say is based on that assumption, so it may not be 100% true for your motor, but it's pretty close.

My serial number is between those values, yes. And my starter & choke problems are solved. Rebuilt starter works amazing, and my choke issue? The nut was missing from the connector on the solenoid, and the lead wire was off and RESTING on the threads. Couldn't believe my eyes. Choke works fine now.

Oh, and I replaced the rectifier. It was a wild stab, hoping that was the cause of my voltage weirdness (plus, it's a repair that I have confidence doing) No change on the voltmeter: registered 17 v again on the Garmin today. Ah, well.