Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

[Glastron_V210]

Hi all.

I was looking for some stiff steering on my 285. I found it.

First I removed all the internal steering connections up to the steering fork (I have cable steering), so there was no internal resistance. I found the drive was still stiff back and forth. I disconnected the steering helmet in preparation to remove the drive and found the leg itself is really nice and loose.

So, the sticking is where the steering shaft comes through from the steering lever to the steering fork/helmet.

So, to remove the fork/helmet, my manual says to:

1) Remove tiller arm set screw using 5/32 allen key (Turned out it was a 9/16 headed screw...perhaps it's been changed

2) Pry the steering fork down from the transom shield (on the outside)

Well, she is stuck....any advice??? Anything I missed?


Thanks,

Chay

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

Yes, they get corroded and can be a bear to pry down. DO NOT under any circumstance even consider trying to hammer it out using a drift on the top. That shaft is aluminum and will swell up so you can never get it out.
I usually end up heating it up with a Oxy Act torch and melting the plastic bushing out.
Then clean the areas where the bushings go in and reassemble. Do not force the new bushings in, if they need force, the bore they fit in is not clean enough.

 

[Glastron_V210]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

I'm using a 2 foot prybar on the outside, and have tried heating the fork from the inside. No dice!

I take it you heat it from the outside?

On the inside it's so close to the transom; I'm worried about starting a fire.

Would a standard propane torch have enough heat form the outside after some time (Is the oxy/acet for convienience)?

Is the plastic bushing an easy to get 'standard' replacement part?

Thanks for the quick reply!

Chay

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

I'm using a 2 foot prybar on the outside, and have tried heating the fork from the inside. No dice! Keep trying. You also need 2 bars and try to pull down as even as possible, to prevent binding.

I take it you heat it from the outside? Nope, inside, and heat the steel steering arm too

On the inside it's so close to the transom; I'm worried about starting a fire. Yeah, it happens, be sure to put it out as soons as you can

Would a standard propane torch have enough heat form the outside after some time (Is the oxy/acet for convienience)? Nope, propane isn't hot enough.

Is the plastic bushing an easy to get 'standard' replacement part? Yes

 

[Glastron_V210]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

What do you think of the 2 wood wedges approach with the heat? It's probably a better than the 2 prybars I've been using. I just can't break the transom fitting!


Chay

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

remember there is a cross bolt AND a set screw.
most times I have to drill out the set screw.
on the heat.
I always use another tech for a fire watch with specific instructions, in the event of flames put ME out FIRST.

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

I always use another tech for a fire watch with specific instructions, in the event of flames put ME out FIRST

LOL, I always keep the hose in one hand the torch in the other, and let others know what I am about to do. I use to do it like you, but I got hosed down a couple of times without first catching on fire. (BTW, there was payback)

 

[Glastron_V210]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

I didnt know there was a set screw too...thanks for the tip.

I decided to get right in there.

I actually have twins, and I have the problem on both sides (pulled the other drive today).

I have to fix up the trim stuff and the steering, plus I have a couple of nagging issues with the engines, so out they come.

I prepped both for removal and built a post and beam setup over the boat...tomorrow out they come.

Then I can get right in there with the torch! And hose.

Both drives have milky fluid too...lots of fun.


Chay

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

hahahaha
yep DonS, I to have been nailed by an excited dock hand with a fire extinguiser.
dang them things are cold.
to this day we still debate why.

glastron
saltwater does nasty stuff, the old splined fork and tiller is NLA, the replacements are close to 1000 dollars, try not to destroy your old stuff.
heat, patience, more heat.
but remember, the fire watch is always to put the tech out first.

 

[Glastron_V210]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

"remember there is a cross bolt AND a set screw."


I have the engine out now and am looking at the assembly up close.

For the life of me I can't see the set screw. Where is this thing supposed to be?

It's not listed in my manual either....


Thanks,

Chay

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

Then you don't have one. I have only seen one with both. Most only have one or the other.

 

[Glastron_V210]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

Thanks for the info.

Wish me luck!

Chay

 

[Glastron_V210]

Re: Volvo 285 Steering fork/helmet removal

Sweet success!!!

Keys to success: Heat and improvised puller

1) I removed both the external intake water pipe and the exhaust bellows

2) I rotated the steering helmet down so that the steering bolt hole was vertical

3) I got a 1.5' section of 4x4 and drilled a 3/4 inch hole in it. The 4x4 goes underneath the transom assembly

4) I used a section of grade 8 5/8 inch ready rod, 1.5' long with a set of nuts on each end. This goes through the 4x4 and up through the steering bolt hole in the steering helmet...then simply tighten the nuts to provide a force in the down direction

5) I used 2 regular torches, but used propylene (Yellow bottle) instead of propane. It is WAY better (hotter)!!!

6) Tighten up on the puller until it won't go any further, then heat the fork and split it further using a chisel. When it was hot, tapping the front of the fork up and down with a hammer helped it to free up as well. It should tilt up and down a bit when loose. If it doesn't, it's still frozen. It popped, et voila! It pulled out the rest of the way nice and easy as you'd expect.

It's obvious to me that the fork was frozen on due to corrosion. Once it freed up, it was easy with the puller.

Thanks for all the help

Chay