Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

SV Escapade

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Hello all. I have a 2001(?) Volvo GL-B (Seems I actually have a 5.0 GL-A contrary to the decals)with a Breakerless Inductive Distributor (BID). Symptoms began a week ago. Early morning, turned the key, did not get the engine alarm, and the engine cranked but would not start. Opened the throttle, tried again, no go. Voltmeter on dash indicating 12.8 volts. Shut off the key and left the boat. Came back in the late afternoon, and the boat started right up. Ran the boat up and down the canal at idle, back to the dock, shut it down, waited 5 minutes, and restarted with no trouble. 2 days later, mid morning, very difficult getting the engine started. Eventually did start. Ran the boat all day at speed, multiple starts and stops, no issues. 2 days later, had mechanic friend change plugs and oil (annual sort of service). This was at night, he did not try to start the boat until he was done. The boat would not start. Mechanic is new to marine, but felt the carb was dirty / might need rebuild. Next day, afternoon, boat slowly started. While running, I used some carb cleaner. Started and stopped multiple times. Next day, the boat cranks, but will not start. It sounds like it is going to catch, but as soon as I release the key, it stops. Both batteries still showing 12.7VDC. plenty of fuel getting into the carb. Tried reading the service manual, but I am more of an operator than a repairer! I have 12VDC at the ignition. With the key on, I have 0VDC on the pos post of the coil. When the key is turned to start, I get 9.7VDC at the pos coil post. Still will not start, even waiting until it was warm in the afternoon like the other days. Any thoughts about where I should look next?
Thanks in advance.....
Bill
 
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SV Escapade

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

Hi Don,
The diagram you attached is not what I have. In the SELOC Volvo Penta 1992-2002 repair manual, page 10-48 depicts my distributor. It does have a sensor / ignition module inside the distributor cap. In the original post I parenthetically included a question mark after the year, as I wasn't sure. The boat itself is a 2001 Chris Craft 232. The plastic cover over the carb has decals that state Volvo Penta 5.0 GL-B. Can't imagine the P/O changed the decals, but who knows....
As for spark, well like I said, I am an operator.....just learning all this new stuff! So, long story short, I don't know, but will try to find out tomorrow morning. The thing that has me scratching my head is the lack of voltage on the positive post of the coil with the key on. Also 0 VDC on the purple wire on the alternator. That is until I turn the key from run to start. Then getting the 9.7 VDC in both places.
 

ENSIGN

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

It sounds like a bad key switch but check all the connections first.
 

SV Escapade

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

Good Morning Ensign,
with the key on, there is 12 volts leaving the ky switch across to the emergency cut off switch, and 12 volts leaving the emergency cut off switch. So, I think that the switches are ok.
On my way to Harbor Freight in just a bit to by a spark tester.
Bill
 

Don S

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

How are you checking voltage at the coil to get 9.7V? Did you have the
You do not test from positive terminal to negative terminal. You test from the positive terminal of the coil with your red meter test lead and the negative test lead to a good clean engine ground. The - term. on the coil is not ground.
If you checked it correctly, then you may have a corroded or loose terminal or wire connection between the kill switch and the coil.

I also checked, the 5.0GL-A used the BID distributor, but the B model you have doesn't even list it in the OEM service manuals or parts.
Year of boat is meaningless, only the model of the engine tells what it is.
Look on the engine block and see if the metal tag also says A or B.

View attachment 174965
 

SV Escapade

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

Good Morning Don,
Let me start by thanking you for the time and effort you put in to the forums! Amazing!
I am testing between the coil pos and a solid ground on the block, not across the coil.
And thanks for the research about the GL-A vs. the GL-B. I have been unable to locate the tag on the block but will continue to hunt.
The way engine is mounted, I cannot get behind it to access the wiring harness female plug, there just isn't any room. So, tracing the specific location of a bad wire is going to be a pain. I was sure hoping for some sort of plug and play replacement for a faulty part, like a bad sensor ignition module, but after all it is a boat and is never easy! I will post about the spark later today after the return from Harbor Freight.
Bill
 

Don S

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

The way engine is mounted, I cannot get behind it to access the wiring harness female plug, there just isn't any room.

Sounds like normal boat repair procedures to me. Some times you just have to take the boat apart to get to things. I have had to pull engines to replace starters, even to change the spark plugs on one Campion boat that I remember.

No real need to buy a spark tester, just pull the coil wire out of the center of the distributor cap, hold it about 3/8 to 1/2" away from a good clean ground and crank the engine over. You should get a bright blue spark that snaps easily across the gap.
At 9.7V, I doubt it fires, even if it does it will be a weak yellow spark.
Have you checked the battery voltage when the engine is cranking? If it's too slow and the engine is cranking slow, it will be hard to start.
Does the engine sound like it's cranking over at the normal speed?
 

SV Escapade

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

Well, what a difference an afternoon makes. I came back to the boat, started by checking battery voltages. #1 now at 11.9, #2 at 12.4. Not great, but press on. Measure voltage again at the pos coil stud. get the good voltmeter leads with the alligator clips. still 0VDC with the key in the on position. So, finally giving in and deciding to start at the start and trace the whole circuit, I move forward to the helm. Still a bit frustrated, I pull the lanyard out of the kill switch. I exersize the kill switch about 5 times. Put the lanyard back in place. About that time my wife calls out "Hey, you've got 11.6 showing on this meter thing that said zero before" (still had the VM hooked to the coil). I walk back and look, and no kidding, there is now voltage! I have her go turn the key off, pull the coil wire, have her hit the starter, and voila! nice strong blue spark across the gap! Key off, coil wire back on, key on, engine purring!!! I swear I tested the voltage across the kill switch last night, honest!!! I am still not getting the engine alarm with the key turned on, but at least she is running and I know where to start to trace the alarm circuit now!)In any case, it seems like I may be back on the water (with a new kill switch to be purchased first light on Monday morning......Don, I really do appreciate the way you lead us beginners, forcing us to learn basics as well as systems while helping us fix our woes. Ensign, you were oh so close and definitely on the right track. Great forum! SV Escapade clear and standing by 16..........
 
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Don S

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

I swear I tested the voltage across the kill switch last night, honest!!!

You DO NOT check voltage from one side of the switch to the other and get what you expect. If you do check it like that and get voltage, that tells you it's open. Like a switch in the OFF position. If the switch was on and working properly;, you would get 0 volts.
You were doing a voltage drop test, not a test for voltage.

Here is a thread from the Electrical forum that may help you understand a bit better.
http://forums.iboats.com/electrical...helm-how-test-voltage-583456.html#post4019539
 

SV Escapade

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

You DO NOT check voltage from one side of the switch to the other and get what you expect. If you do check it like that and get voltage, that tells you it's open. Like a switch in the OFF position. If the switch was on and working properly;, you would get 0 volts.

Sorry, just poor grammar. I was testing from the output side of the switch to a big ground bus behind the instrument cluster. Making sure the voltage was crossing the switch, not testing across the switch. Good clarification for others reading this thread though.
 

ENSIGN

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Re: Volvo 5.0 GL-B cranks, won't start

Glad you found it .
 
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