Volvo Penta 4.3 knock - possible solutionsI

HMSW

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Jul 18, 2014
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3
Long time reader, first time poster. I really appreciate this great forum!

I am familiar with car engines and have been working on V8's and other engines for several years.

Ok, here we go.

Bought a 1997 Regal 2150 with a VP 4.3 and a Cobra SX outdrive. The boat had been standing around for a couple of years and previous owner had it in the salt water and ran it with a small leak from the seawater pump. Guess you can all imagine what the engine and components looked like. I got all the accessories freed up and replaced the sea water pump. Removed water from the tank and gave it some fresh fuel and filter. It fired up and ran pretty good with muffs attached. After some testing I decided to take it to the lake and it was successful. Cruised around for a couple of days, guess I put about 8 hours on it with different speeds, but never held the full throttle for longer than 15 sec. One day I had to pick up some friends to bring the across the lake, I let it run (it was already at operating temp of course) at full throttle for about 6 - 8 minutes and I felt it lost some power and changed caracteristic. Let off the throttle and could hear a ticking metallic sound. Well, I picked up my friends and we had a 25 - 30 minutes ride at about 25kt. The sound was not possible to hear at higher rpm's and it pulled OK.

Got back home (another 30 minutes) and pulled it on the trailer. Then over to the diagnostics... I've been working on it for several hours today, of course after reading and watching videos. It sounds like several "sticky valve/lifter problem" videos available on youtube.

When removing all spark plugs the sound is barely noticeable

When disconnecting the distributor and leaving spark plugs in engine I can hear the sound, especially with the valve covers off. Localized the sound to be from cylinder 1.

When removing rocker arms and pushrods (only for cylinder 1) and running the engine the sound is not there. I can hear the cam smacking the lifters, but it might be normal.

Reassembling the pushrods and rocker arms the sound is not there until the engine has been running for like 2-5 minutes - strange!

Leaving the cover off I let the engine run and slightly back off the nut on the rocker arm (either one of them, intake or exhaust) there is no change - BUT when I tighten it it will remove the sound almost instantly. It will then return after 2-5 minutes of idling.

I'd like some input from you guys! My thoughts are:

1. Something loosened up and got into one of the lifters when running full throttle. Although this does not comply with the tightening of either exhaust or intake rocker arm since it does not matter which of them I tighten)

2. When I tighten the nut I relieve pressure from the piston since it might keep the valve a bit open until the lifter settles and the again fully closes the valve. Strange that it should completely remove the sound.


Also - could you please confirm that this engine does NOT have any kind of valve adjustment other than actually replacing the pushrods to a different part nr (with different lengths).

I put some ATF oil in the motor oil and ran it for some time and then changed it out including the filter.No change in sound.

Big thanks from Norway to whoever that can give me some good input to the problem.
 

RoyR

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
Messages
203
Interesting...I have a similar issue with a GM3800 engine, I also lost power before this happened.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,308
Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... Do a Compression, 'n Leak-down Tests for insight into the problem,.....

My guess is ya Detonated it from a lean condition,.....
 

HMSW

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Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Messages
3
Short update... Swapped out the lifters on nr 1 with two good ones. No change... Pulled the engine and started moving parts to a long block I had ready for a merc engine for another boat. Checked bearings on nr 1 rod and it had was positioned about 4mm rotated to one side. Some scratches visible, I will post some pics tomorrow. Will also remove heads and piston to investigate. For info, I did some further testing. When torque was applied very slowly to the valves for cyl 1 I did not notice any change in sound. If I applied torque somewhat "quick" all sounds would go away. Guess the valve was left a bit open while the lidter adjust itself, this not allowing a total combustion and enough pressure on the piston/rod... Eirher way I will post all my findings in case it would help someone down the road. What do you put in "detonated"? Either way I understand it is not a good thing... Thanks for the input guys. For once we have perfect summer weather here in Norway and I'd like to have the boat back in the lake! Thumbs up for final assembly tomorrow. One question regarding ignition... Do you know any applicationthat use the same plug as the one needed for the distributor when adjusting base ignition? Like an amcar or other GM like opel/vauxhall. I would not like to wait for the plug to be sent to me...
 

Bondo

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Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,308
Ayuh,.... Detonation is localized hot spots in the cylinders as the motor consumes itself, chunkin' off piston crowns, or just holin' a piston, or over-heatin' the valves causin' tuliped heads, 'n stickin',...
Usually caused by a Lean condition, but other factors do contribute,...
 

HMSW

Recruit
Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Messages
3
Alright... thanks for good news :)

Anyways.. I found some metal parts in the oil pan. Will take some pics as I can't immediately identify them. From the first look I believe they could be part of the clip holding the hydraulic lifter together.

Put in the "new" engine this morning and idles great. Guess I will have to get the dongle to adjust base timing on the EST ignition system. Any way around this or do you know a car I can pull the plug from and make my own?

Thanks
 

insttech1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
340
That timing plug is very simple. It's just two or three leads. All you need are some female pins and wire. But I'll be damned if I can find the diagram on here that I used to make mine. You must also follow the procedure as well; I believe the manual is wrong, and you can only connect the "hot" leg once the engine is running, but you probably already know that.

I'm trying to find the diagrams, but the forum search tools have changed, and it's no longer in the DIY section, that I can find anyway. Can't look more right now, as I'm at work, but write up a quick new post asking for the timing diagram, and I'm sure someone will post a shortcut today.

It might be under the merc' DIY forum too.....

Good luck.
 
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