West Islander
Cadet
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2020
- Messages
- 7
First thank you all for your expertise and advice, I frequent this site to get information but I have never posted before.... I have a 2000 Sea Ox 223F walk around with a Volvo Penta 4.3 GL (carbed with EST ignition). The MOB tether switch was deleted on this boat by a previous owner. The starter had acted up on the boat so I had to rap on it with a hammer to get it to turn over recently.
The other day I was on the water for a full day, the boat was running fine, idling fine, cruising fine, and (occasionally) topping out fine. At the end of the day we were headed home and decided to stop to take a few pictures. As I eased the throttle back from a cruising speed the engine sputtered and died. It has never done this to me before. I tried to restarting and it cranked but wouldn’t start. I guessed I may have a clogged fuel filter so I swapped it out with a new one. I cranked it over and it still wouldn’t fire. I did get it to briefly run only when I sprayed it with starter fluid. Long story short I had to get towed to port.
still convinced it was fuel I disconnected the fuel line at the Carburetor, plenty of fuel. Looked down the throat and it was shooting plenty of fuel. I removed spark plug #1, grounded it, and cranked. No spark (By now the batteries were low, but The engine would still turn over). Next I checked to see if I was getting spark from the coil. Nothing....
I towed the boat home and hooked it up to a battery tender for a few nights. I did some research where I determined that I needed to check the Purple wire at the coil with the ignition on to see if I had 12v at the coil. I pulled the lead and expected to see 0v (by now I believed when I hit the starter with a hammer that I had damaged the purple wire from the starter to the coil and that is what caused the failure) I was surprised to see that I had 12.76v at the coils purple wire. So I tried staring it and the engine immediately fired and ran smoothly.....:grumpy:
now I don’t know what to think and am seeking guidance.... possibly a ground issue? The only ground I saw in the schematic is the coil itself being directly grounded when it’s bolted on. The MOB delete was still intact (the 2 leads to the switch crimped together with no corrosion issues).... any advice would be greatly appreciated
The other day I was on the water for a full day, the boat was running fine, idling fine, cruising fine, and (occasionally) topping out fine. At the end of the day we were headed home and decided to stop to take a few pictures. As I eased the throttle back from a cruising speed the engine sputtered and died. It has never done this to me before. I tried to restarting and it cranked but wouldn’t start. I guessed I may have a clogged fuel filter so I swapped it out with a new one. I cranked it over and it still wouldn’t fire. I did get it to briefly run only when I sprayed it with starter fluid. Long story short I had to get towed to port.
still convinced it was fuel I disconnected the fuel line at the Carburetor, plenty of fuel. Looked down the throat and it was shooting plenty of fuel. I removed spark plug #1, grounded it, and cranked. No spark (By now the batteries were low, but The engine would still turn over). Next I checked to see if I was getting spark from the coil. Nothing....
I towed the boat home and hooked it up to a battery tender for a few nights. I did some research where I determined that I needed to check the Purple wire at the coil with the ignition on to see if I had 12v at the coil. I pulled the lead and expected to see 0v (by now I believed when I hit the starter with a hammer that I had damaged the purple wire from the starter to the coil and that is what caused the failure) I was surprised to see that I had 12.76v at the coils purple wire. So I tried staring it and the engine immediately fired and ran smoothly.....:grumpy:
now I don’t know what to think and am seeking guidance.... possibly a ground issue? The only ground I saw in the schematic is the coil itself being directly grounded when it’s bolted on. The MOB delete was still intact (the 2 leads to the switch crimped together with no corrosion issues).... any advice would be greatly appreciated