Volvo Penta AQ130 Sea Water Pump crapped the bed.. HELP PLEASE!!

Ghost21

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
33
Hello All,

Well I have been trying to find the cause of my water in my engine and after checking my oil cooler and replacing all those parts it was on to the water pump. After taking the front cover off it looked alright. Then I unbolted the main piece from the engine block and that's when the shock and awe set in.. I'm looking at broken rubber gaskets and something that looks like a small spring that was protruding from the outer most seal.

Q. I was looking at this rebuild kit. attached below. Is it worth it ?
Q. Is there another pump that is better and a direct bolt on ?
Q. How can I best get this resolved. Cost is always an issue but I want it working correctly..

Ty.
Ghost
 

Alan Lloys

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
99
That kit will work but it is probably more than you need.
If the rear cross is good then all you need is the rear seal. I replaced it on my AQ125 which is very similar and it is fairly simple.
The rear seal alone should be less than $ 10 including shipping.
 

Ghost21

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
33
How do you get the damn thing out ? Do I need to put a screw driver in there and pop it out ?
 

Ghost21

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
33
No Title

This is what the carnage looks like from the outside .. I also found the inner seal in pieces inside.
 

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Ghost21

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
33
No Title

These are all the parts the rubber seal and the paddle wheel look alright and are still plyable. The gasket on the bottom right corner looks pretty warn and the steel seal is shot on the left. The steel pin that runs through the centre has ware on the shaft enough that I can feel it with my finger. I haven't found my microomitor to see but it's approximately the thickness of the piece of paper. I can also tell when I place the pin in the front cap it's got a bit of play. The seal inside the main unit seams good.

I was thinking a wire wheel and a a good cleaning.

Thoughts ???
 

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Ghost21

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
33
If anyone is looking at this later on. I replaced all the seals , water wheel and the center pin. After all the added work and cost still like McDonalds white milk shake. On to step 3 head gasket removal and replacement. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuukkkk not looking forward to this.. I started with the cheapest the oil cooler then the water pump and on to the head gasket. To admit at each item I have found issues from an old additional gasket that I had left on the oil cooler. To the water pump having blown seals, a shot worn shaft and seals cracking.. Still frustrating .. Wish you the best if you read this.. bought a seloc manual and a few cases of beer.. This is going to be interesting...
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,293
Ayuh,.... Odds are, ya got a cracked block, as head gaskets rarely dump water into the oil,...
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
I feel your pain. What started on my engine as a head replacement turned into a rebuild, as I had some corrosion on the cylinder. Which lead to shotty machine work on the block. Hard to find parts (intermediate shaft bearing and water pump) to the machine shop not aliging the intermediate shaft seals and one oil hole being 1/4" off on alignment I had to drill it out. Then after that it went well until first start up and the engine blew a freeze plug. Turns out they weren't set right and were just pushed in and held with black RTV. so I had to whack all those into place. (thanks machine shop). You might need more beer depending how deep you go.
 
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