Volvo Penta DP-SM outdrive

[Lefty73]

Hey there...Husband and I just pulled out the boat for the season and found one of the seals leaking when we removed the props. Decided to change both seals and o-rings, my question is, how does the bearing carrier come out? is it pressed in and I need a puller or is it threaded on? Have searched on the net but have found nothing that says how to get the bearing carrier out, any help would be appreciated

 

[alldodge]

Hey there...Husband and I just pulled out the boat for the season and found one of the seals leaking when we removed the props. Decided to change both seals and o-rings, my question is, how does the bearing carrier come out? is it pressed in and I need a puller or is it threaded on? Have searched on the net but have found nothing that says how to get the bearing carrier out, any help would be appreciated

:welcome: to iboats

Sorry you did not received a response and I'm not a VP expert but do know where the manuals are. If you can provide with a bit more info then a DP-SM maybe I can find something

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes you'll need a puller.
I think there is 1 bolt and then the puller with an inside reach..

 

[Corian35]

No Title

the bearing carrier is removed by un-screwing it from the lower unit housing. Before you unscrew it you need to remove the set screw (torx head) that is on the side of the lower unit (look at the prop shaft) its about at the 11 clock position, also you have to remove the bolt and retainer from inside of the carrier bearing housing. The bolt is at the 2 clock position looking down the prop shaft. You will also need a special tool to remove the carrier bearing housing from the lower unit. I had one made at work. Also I think the torque requirement for installing the carrier bearing hsg is around 200 ft-lbs.

Hope this helps

 

[Dave-R]

I have done one last year on a Volvo SX drive. I used a piece of 2" pipe, about 12" long for the tool, and ground the slots with my air cut off tool. I simply used a pipe wrench to remove the carrier . This is easier if you leave the drive on. The threads are right hand. Be sure to remove the set screw first, and there also is a keeper and a bolt inside that has to come off before unscrewing it. I marked the housing so I would know when it was back where it was supposed to be when I reinstalled it all. There is a shim that comes out,use it for your install to give you proper depth. In the manual, they wanted about 20lbs of rolling torque. I would check the rolling torque before you take it apart. That way you can check it after your done. The seal I took out myself,and took everything to the dealer. New seal about 10.00$ and they pressed in in for free. Good guys. Dave-R P.S. (Drain the drive first.) My friend watched me do a Moen faucet repair but chewed me out because I never told him to turn the water off.